Oct/090
One Cold Stroke at a Time
Swimming the length of Lake Tahoe remains a rarefied aquatic testpiece
By Seth Lightcap
Photo: Dan Rogers
Tahoe’s Karen Rogers out for a multi-mile swim in glassy Tahoe conditions. Rogers plans on swimming the length of Lake Tahoe in August 2009 after three years of training.
At 6225 feet and holding a colossal 122 million acre feet of sapphire blue water, Lake Tahoe is not only the crown jewel of the Sierra but also the largest alpine lake in North America and the eighth deepest in the world.
While the biggest, tallest, or longest alpine anything usually attracts quest-driven endurance athletes like powder junkies to first chairs, surprisingly few marathon swimmers have swam the 22-mile length of Big Blue. To date, only 12 warm-blooded souls have succeeded, although at least one more has it in her sights this summer.
Understanding why just a dozen swimmers have completed the challenge is a no-brainer for Dean Moser, the unofficial record keeper of Tahoe marathon swimming and crew captain for two successful Tahoe length swimmers. “Swimming the length of Lake Tahoe is akin to climbing Mt. Everest,” he says. “It’s a huge feat.”
“A swimmer can get really beat up by the elements,” adds Moser. “All of the finishers have been very strong swimmers with significant cold water experience. It takes an incredible athlete to overcome the altitude and frigid fresh water for that length of time. That’s why so few people have ever done it.”
The first swimmer to meet the challenge was a 29-year-old South San Francisco bartender named Fred Rogers who took off from Kings Beach on the morning of Aug. 28, 1955, and arrived on the South Shore 19 hours later. However, the distance of his route, measured at 19.96 miles, came up a little short. Though Moser gives credit to Rogers as the first successful swimmer, he no longer considers Rogers’ 19.96-mile route an official Tahoe length swim.
“A full-length Tahoe swim must be between the extreme south and north shores – say Tahoe Keys or Camp Richardson in the south to Incline Beach or Hyatt Beach in the north. The route should be around 21 miles.” The third person to complete the swim (and youngest ever), 13-year-old Lenore Modell, swam nearly that long of a route in 1963. But it was Dave Kenyon who first knocked out the true long course when he swam 20.81 miles from Tahoe Keys to Hyatt Beach in 1989. Blazing the swim in 9 hours and 20 minutes, Kenyon also holds the speed record.
Every successful swimmer has had a boat to accompany them as they swam but most of those who have swum in the last two decades have obeyed the “English Channel rules” of no physical contact with the boat nor any other person aside from receiving food. Having an attentive boat crew feeding him consistent and ample calories was vital for Santa Cruz-based marathon swimmer Bruckner Chase in 2005.
“Swimming in the cold temperatures nutrition is absolutely critical,” Chase says. “During my Tahoe swim I drank 8 ounces of a carbohydrate, protein, and fat mix every 20 minutes and then ate a GU packet at the top of every hour.” Chase battled rough waters for the last third of his swim. His rigorous training was the only thing that kept him churning, he says.
“Having completed several Ironman events I knew what it was like to race for 9 to 10 hours. Aspiring swimmers should log as many as 6-to-9-hour training swims as they can. You need to know the energy costs of long hours in the water and how your body will react to it … And if you can’t tolerate cold water, don’t bother. Not everyone is wired to do high altitude cold-water swimming but I think more people are capable of it than they think. I’m surprised more folks haven’t swam the length. It was one of the best experiences I have ever had in the water – an amazing swim in an amazing place.”
This summer, at least two more brave athletes plan to make an attempt: Lafayette’s Tom Linthicum, 51, hopes to be the first to swim the length twice (he successfully crossed in 2006), while Tahoe’s own Karen Rogers looks to be the sixth ever female finisher. Rogers, 41, has been training for the last three years in anticipation of the attempt and dreams of a glassy day on the lake when she pushes off from Camp Richardson in early August. “The perfect day would be to not battle any chop. My hope is that when I enter the water it is absolutely and perfectly still. Any sound of water lapping on the shore at 3 a.m. will be a sign that the winds will pick up throughout the day.”
Calm waters would be an energy saver for Rogers, but she knows she cannot count on 10 tranquil hours so her immediate training focus has been on increasing her endurance and perfecting her calorie intake. “My feeding regiment is still a work in progress. We’re experimenting with adding protein, fat, and maybe even a little caffeine to the mix. The caffeine would only be for the last hour or two as it can cause hypothermia.”
Every month leading up to her August attempt Rogers will be adding an hour to an epic training swim. In May, she’ll try a seven-hour swim in San Francisco Bay; in June, an eight-hour swim. Rogers hopes the long hours in the water will help her learn to overcome the “swimmer’s depression” that she has fought on previous mega-swims. “During some of my longer swims I’ve gone through periods of serious depression. At about the four or five hour mark I just feel terrible … I get angry. Battling through that anguish and regaining my confidence will be the biggest challenge I will face swimming the length of Tahoe.”
If and when she does stand on Hyatt Beach triumphant, it will fulfill an aspiration much older than even her three years of intense training suggests. “When I was seven years old my dad took me for a bike ride at Camp Richardson. Looking out on the lake I told my father that someday I would swim across. Hearing that, he said to me, ‘There is no doubt in my mind that you’ll do that.’ It’s been on my life list ever since.” To read more about Karen Roger’s preparations for her length of Tahoe swim, visit her blog at swimtahoe.blogspot.com
Oct/090
Behind the Swell of Stand-Up Paddling
Lance Hookano surfing his SUP.
Photo by Sander Nauenberg.
Imported from Hawaii, hybrid sport growing from Santa Cruz to Lake Tahoe
By Ramona d’Viola
In the blush of first light, on the island of Moloka’i, a conch shell bellows from the shores of Kaluako’i Beach. The kahuna has blessed the gathering of paddleboarders and their crews, bidding them good luck and a safe passage. The sound of his shell horn breathes life into the still morning. On cue, dozens of men, and a handful of women, charge into the surf for the annual Moloka’i to Oah’u Paddleboard Race. Their goal: To reach the southeast shore of Oah’u in as little time as possible.
The line-up features an impressive cast of international paddleboarders: the formidable Australians, the competitive Californians, and a smattering of super-fit European and Japanese watermen. Punctuating the string of prone paddlers are several hulking Hawai’ians — standing upright with paddles in hand — powering away toward the choppy channel, looking very much like the glyphs of their ancestors.
For the Honolulu beach boys who taught surfing at Waikiki’s waterfront, grabbing a paddle from a nearby outrigger made for easy trips to and from shore, especially with a sunburned tourist in tow. Now the accidental practice of stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), once rooted in convenience, has been improved upon by innovation, perfected in competition, and in the last few years blossomed into a bona-fide sport of its own.
Gaining Exposure
Witness the likes of über-surfer Laird Hamilton slaloming mountainous waves, carving perfect arcs with paddle in hand. And rock-star Sting, struggling along in calm Caribbean seas, proving it ain’t that easy. A stand-up paddleboard recently showed up in People magazine, of all places, on the shoulders of big-screen hunk Matthew McConaughey (BTW: I only look at the pictures – I don’t actually read the magazine).
Well, the media exposure was another spoonful of confirmation that this sport, once thought of as a fringe pursuit practiced mostly by aging surfers with troublesome backs, had crossed the foam line and was now riding a swell of pop-culture legitimacy – a development which more than likely would curl the toes of a few veterans, although it’s unlikely they would even notice.
Indeed, “stand-up” has become the latest surf-inspired offshoot to grab a following, and it appears poised to stay, as the reasons for its recent growth spurt go well beyond bare-chested celebrities. The practical, physical and sporting advantages of stand-up paddleboarding are numerous and compelling.
Broad Appeal
Dan Gavere was an early SUP adopter. A former pro whitewater kayaker, Gavere is a sales rep for Werner Paddles, a leading kayak and canoe paddle manufacturer that recently brought its expertise to the SUP market. The Hood River, Oregon-based road warrior credits the sports’ popularity to its increased visibility — on the water and in the press.
“With the continued cross-pollination between paddle sports and surfing, there’s more opportunities for people to access the ocean in a variety of mediums, whether there’s waves or not,” he says. “Stand-up paddling is another niche for the ever-evolving water sports market.”
As sales rep for the Southwest U.S. and Hawaii, Gavere is a frequent visitor to oceans sports epicenters like Santa Cruz, where he has seen a jump in his SUP sales at outlets like Kayak Connection, which sells the boards and offers rentals and classes.
Not everyone coming to stand-up paddleboarding is a surfer, nor do they want to be. According to Gavere, stand-up paddle surfing takes many of the negative aspects of traditional surfing out of the equation.
“You’re standing upright, you can see the waves from further out, you have the extra power a paddle provides, and you don’t have to jump to your feet … That prone to upright snap gets harder as you get older,” laughs Gavere.
There is great interest among a broad range of outdoor enthusiasts, says Kayak Connection owner Margeret Collins, including surfers, wind surfers, kayakers, and others that want to stay fit and in the outdoors.
“It is a great workout that keeps us outside and out of the gym,” says Collins, who enjoys getting out on the water in the morning. “It’s very meditative and very close to nature.”
Surf-bred, Not Surf Dependent
Saltwater isn’t the only province for SUPs. There are growing numbers on lakes and rivers, too. Laird Hamilton even paddled one down the Grand Canyon. On Lake Tahoe, SUPs are becoming a common sight and are sold in shops such as Tahoe Paddle & Oar in Kings Beach. There’s even a race on the lake each summer; the second-annual Ta-Hoe Nalu Stand-up Paddle Classic, a 7.4-mile race, takes place on Aug. 16 this year, www.ta-hoenalu.com.
“A great thing about the sport is that you don’t need the ocean,” says Duke Brouwer, marketing director for Surftech, the Santa Cruz-based board manufacturer. “Wherever there’s a body of water there’s an opportunity to stand on your board and go for a paddle. I’ve seen guys fishing off their SUPs on rivers … and recently heard of some guys planning a four-day stand-up paddle tour of Lake Powell with packs and sleeping bags.”
That’s why shops like Aquan Sports in San Carlos and California Canoe & Kayak in Oakland are finding SUPs to be a great new market – because they cross over from the surf to flatwater paddling on the bay and local lakes. Now surfers and paddlers in the Bay Area and elsewhere who can’t make it to the coast that often can get a great surf-style workout closer to home.
For kayak paddlers, stand-up paddling provides a fresh, heightened perspective when out on the water.
In San Diego, SUPs have become a popular cross-training tool for triathletes in its protected bays and along the coast. It makes for a phenomenal low-impact workout, Brouwer says. “It works not only your core muscles but engages all of your major muscle groups (to paddle and balance on the board).”
Another factor behind SUP’s surging popularity, Brouwer notes, is that the sport is very easy to learn – at least on flat water. “The boards are very stable and you can have the paddle wired after about a half an hour on the water.”
In the Sacramento area, SUP classes are offered through the summer at the Sacramento State Aquatic Center on Lake Natoma (916-278-2842; www.sacstateaquaticcenter.com). The introductory classes ($30 for the public) are three hours long; all equipment is provided. Check the website for dates and times.
Expert Swell Catchers
In surf and on the open ocean, SUPs can demand a considerably larger skill set than on flatwater. With their length and speed, stand-up paddleboards are ideal for catching ocean swells that don’t crest. Called “runners,” learning to ride these moving mounds of water is like hitching rides on a conveyor belt of hills.
The runners in the channel between Moloka’i and Oahu are legendary. The refraction waves generated by water slamming into land mass gives an experienced stand-up paddler a huge, albeit potentially dangerous, advantage. Several years ago, I watched Buzzy Kerbox rocketing along Oahu’s China Wall on his stand-up board, paddling into giant waves, and surfing them all the way into the bay. It was the first time I’d seen a stand-up paddler, and I was intrigued — if not awe struck.
“With the extra paddle power, you can get, and stay, in the pocket,” says Gavere. “Your paddle becomes a tiller, or gets hoisted overhead for surfing the hell out of a seemingly endless wave.”
SUP Full Disclosure
There can be some downsides to the sport, admits Gavere. “The extra gear, the cost of equipment, and unfortunately, localism. Not all surfers have embraced us.”
Provincial knuckleheads aside, enthusiasts are growing in number as paddleboarding, kayaking, and outrigger clubs see their ranks embracing a new sport. With categories showing up with increasing regularity at paddling competitions of all ilks, stand-up paddling might be the missing link among all camps.
“It’s one of the hardest workouts I’ve ever had,” says surfer, prone and stand-up, Tom Duryea. “It requires equal parts balance, power, agility, and endurance. But once you’re moving, it’s fast, really fast.”
Duryea, a familiar name in the winner’s circle at traditional belly-on-the-board paddleboarding competitions, has recently applied his impressive fitness to the stand-up variety of the sport. “I like to try any kind of watercraft, and stand-up paddling requires a whole new set of skills,” says Duryea, two-time winner of the Santa Cruz Paddleboard Union’s annual Jay Moriarity Memorial Paddleboard Race, and three-time Catalina Classic champion.
“You’re much more exposed to the wind and wake when you’re stand-up paddling, so balance is crucial. But, it allows for training with a more social aspect, in all types of conditions,” adds Duryea. “From flat and calm in the bay, to big and bumpy in ocean.”
Although stand-up paddleboards are versatile watercraft, if you’re interested in trying one, common sense and courtesy should hold sway – e.g. don’t paddle out into a crowded break, and don’t paddle into conditions beyond your ability. Remember, you’ve got a paddle and a whole lot more board to handle.
Aside from a few agro surfers, Gavere rates Santa Cruz as one of his favorite places to put in. “I caught a wave at Indicators and connected the dots all the way into Cowell’s,” says the lifelong waterman. “Santa Cruz is the perfect place for stand-up, whether you want to surf or just explore.”
One thing’s for sure: The rebirth of this ancient sport and its adoption in places so far in distance and climate from the islands would impress any kahuna.
Oct/090
A Fine Time to Paddle
Indian Summer is the ideal season for kayaking the coast, Lake Tahoe
By Pete Gauvin
Half Moon Bay Coastline
Photo: Lou Solitske
Push off from a sandy beach or paddle out of a protected harbor along the coast and you are physically no longer a resident of California, but of the eastern Pacific, at the edge of a vast wilderness.
September and October are usually the best months to explore this wilderness along our ruggedly beautiful coast. The fog layer loosens its grip and peels back to sea, while ocean swells are likely to still be mild. Of course, there’s no guarantee that you’ll get a warm, sunny day and calm seas, but it’s a better bet now than any other time of year. On the coast, everyone knows summer comes in the fall.
Post Labor Day, the absence of summer crowds also makes for serene paddling on the jewel of the Sierra, Lake Tahoe. Fewer power boats, less traffic and mild temperatures will allow you to experience Tahoe at its most peaceful time of year.
Here’s the skinny on five prime destinations for autumn paddling: Mendocino, Tomales Bay, Half Moon Bay, Big Sur and Lake Tahoe.
For more information on these areas and others, an excellent book is the Guide to Sea Kayaking in Central and Northern California, by Roger Schumann and Jan Shriner.
Mendocino shoreline
Photo: Lisa Norman
Mendocino
Highlights: In two words: sea caves. Sea caves litter the Mendocino and Sonoma coast. Where there is no sandy beach, most likely there is a cave or the beginnings of one. Some are little more than shallow depressions or arches, while others are complex tunnels that you can follow hundreds of feet from one rocky cove to another. In some of the more serpentine caves it’s good to have a headlamp. Huge unimpeded northwest swells have pummeled this coast for centuries to create this network of caves. In September and October, the big swells are usually still on vacation, making for one of the best times to explore the caves by kayak. But caution is advised at all times. Novice paddlers should go only with a guide.
But there’s more to see than just caves, as Lost Coast Kayaking guide Craig Comen relates:
“Around me are sandstone cliffs, lined with cypress, pine and redwood. Above me, osprey screech and hover, seeking prey. Below me, sea stars, green anemones, and red abalone lead their sessile lives and thrive in the 55 degree water. It is here I watch pelagic cormorants nest, the young growing each day of summer, and finally taking that leap of faith for their first flight. It is here I get to know harbor seals by their markings and personality, and each pupping season another youngster takes to me like Curious George. They spin and frolic under my boat, come speeding at my paddle and look up at me with compassionate eyes. On these waters, I watch the black oyster catcher scale the rocks, court their mate, and voice their opinions loudly about worldly matters. My terrestrial life floats away as I join the other beings of this habitat and put myself in a different chain of circumstance.”
Another great side trip, but not quite as saline is a quiet paddle up one of the many scenic rivers. Here one can meander with the tidal ebb and flow, and catch a glimpse of otters, harbor seals, egrets, osprey, kingfishers and spectacular redwoods.
Logistics: Approximately 3.5 hours north of San Francisco, Van Damme State Beach is one of the best access points. It offers a sandy south-facing launching beach and convenient parking. Other good put-ins are found at Albion Cove and the Navarro River to the south on Highway 1, and to the north, Fort Bragg’s Noyo Harbor, Russian Gulch and Caspar Beach. A good reference for current conditions and forecasts is NOAA weather radio, especially the bouy reports from Point Arena and Cape Mendocino.
Outfitters: Guided tours are available from two local outfits, Force 10 Ocean Kayak Tours in Elk (www.force10tours.com; 707-937-2434), Blue Water Ventures (www.bluewaterventures.org, 831-459-8548 and Lost Coast Kayaking in Little River (www.lostcoastkayaking.com, 707-937-2434), which offers two-hour guided tours on sit-on-top kayaks for $50 per person.
Other outfitters also lead weekend trips to Mendocino, including Kayak Connection (www.kayakconnection.com) of Santa Cruz. California Canoe & Kayak (www.calkayak.com; 800-366-9804) also has a trip planned to explore Mendocino’s sea caves on Sept. 10-11 ($249 including gear, meals and camping).
Getting there: Take 101 north to Highway 128 west, just north of Cloverdale. Continue west through the vineyards of Anderson Valley until you meet up with Highway 1.
Camping on the beach
Photo courtesy of Blue Waters Kayaking
Tomales Bay/Drakes Estero
Highlights: One of the best year-round paddling destinations on the West Coast, Tomales Bay is a long sliver of a bay on the lee side of the Point Reyes peninsula. It’s wind-sheltered and swell-protected waters, kayak camping on secluded beaches, tremendous bird life and an organic rural ambience, all within in an easy drive of the Bay Area. It’s an ideal place for beginning touring kayakers to try their first overnight trip. Conditions gradually become more challenging as one approaches the more exposed northern part of the bay.
Drakes Estero, on the south-facing sweep of the Point Reyes National Seashore, is another stunning place to paddle in the fall. (It is closed to kayaks from March 15 until July 1.) Surrounded by rolling grassy hills, the estero is rich in wildlife, including harbor seals, bat rays, leopard sharks and a wide variety of birds – osprey, geese, white pelicans, loons, grebes, shorebirds. After launching from Johnson’s Oyster Farm, the only access point, you can paddle 3.5 miles across the estero to Drakes Bay or explore several other fingers of the estero.
Logistics: Follow 101 north to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and head west to Highway 1. Turn north toward Point Reyes Station and Inverness.
Outfitters: Blue Waters Kayaking (www.bwkayak.com, 415-669-2600) offers guided half-day and full-day tours of Tomales Bay and Drakes Estero. Kayak rentals are available at both of Blue Waters’ Tomales Bay locations: in Inverness on the west side, and in Marshall on the east. Closed-deck kayaks and sit-on-tops are available. To rent closed-deck boats you must have completed a sea kayaking basic skills course or equivalent, and know recovery and re-entry techniques.
Kayak Connection (www.kayakconnection.com), Blue water Ventures (www.bluewaters.org) and Adventure Sports Unlimited (www.asudoit.com) also run overnight trips to Tomales Bay.
Half Moon Bay
Highlights: Wild paddling at the Bay Area’s front door. From protected Pillar Point Harbor, experienced paddlers can venture out to open ocean to explore the rugged coast of the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, including sea stacks, kelp beds, secluded beaches and the legendary Mavericks surf break (No worries – it breaks only under big winter swells). Inside the harbor breakwater, there’s a mellow three-mile loop tour and some sandy beaches that are good for practicing rescues and other skills. Accomplished adrenaline-seeking surf-ski paddlers frequent Half Moon Bay to ride ocean swell. For short boaters, there are also some good breaking-wave surf spots. As always, use caution, paddle with a buddy, and get proper training before getting in over your head.
Logistics: From the Bay Area, take Highway 92 west to Highway 1 and go north to Pillar Point Harbor. Launching sites include the Half Moon Bay Yacht Club in Princeton, along Highway 1 near Surfer’s Beach, and the beach near the boat ramp.
Outfitters: California Canoe & Kayak (www.calkayak.com, 800-366-9804) Venture Quest kayaks (www.kayaksantacruz.com, 831-427-2267) and Half Moon Bay Kayak Co. (www.hmbkayak.com, 650-773-6101) offer tours and classes. Half Moon Bay Kayak Co. also rents sit-on-tops and closed-deck touring kayaks.
The rugged Big Sur coastline
Photo courtesy of Big Sur Kayak Adventures
Big Sur
Highlights: If you think Big Sur is dramatic from the road, you should see it from a sea kayak. The Santa Lucia Mountains soar above dramatic cliffs to dominate your macro-vision, while at water level you experience the rich sea life of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, among the most productive marine habitats on the planet.
The problem that flummoxes most paddlers to this stretch of coast is where to put-in. The protected beach at Andrew Molera State Park is one of the best spots, but you’ll have to carry your boat a mile from the parking lot. The reward – solitude, scenery and good surfing waves – is well worth it. Offshore, otters populate thick kelp beds. Further south, Mill Creek State Beach offers the best access to the southern reaches of Big Sur’s 90-mile coastline, where the mountains surge to more than 5,000 feet above sea level.
Outfitters: Big Sur Kayak Adventures (www.bigsurkayaks.com, 1-888-5BIGSUR) offers single- and multi-day trips from Point Lobos to San Simeon. Daily tours depart from Pacific Valley, Andrew Molera State Park and Point Lobos State Reserve. Santa Cruz-based Kayak Connection (www.kayakconnection.com) leads weekend trips to Big Sur ($125) on Oct. 8-9 and Nov. 5-6.
Rocky Tahoe shore
Photo: Paul Vincent Tralka
Lake Tahoe
Highlights: Beautifully clear fresh water surrounded by sandy beaches, granite boulders, forests of pine, alpine peaks and a lot less congestion than in the summer months, Lake Tahoe provides a refreshing alternative to coastal paddling. Many paddlers make it a goal to circumnavigate the lake, approximately 80 miles. Among many spectacular spots, Emerald Bay provides the most dramatic setting. The California state park system maintains 20 boat-in camping sites at Emerald Bay (reservations not accepted after Sept.1).
Outfitters: On the south shore, Kayak Tahoe (www.kayaktahoe.com, 530-544-2311) offers rentals, tours and classes from its shop on the pier at Timber Cove Marina. Tours include Emerald Bay and the Truckee River estuary. Kayaks can be rented overnight for camping at Emerald Bay. On the north shore, Tahoe City Kayak (www.tahoecitykayak.com, 530-581-4336) offers rentals and tours through September before shutting down for the winter.
Oct/090
Waterhouse: South
Lake Tahoe’s Powder Playland
Photos and Story By Doug Nurock
Standing on the ridge, the Tahoe Basin is framed between the tips of my skis. Rolling for 1,500 vertical feet down into the trees below me is a glistening expanse of untracked fresh powder. The horizon is a merge of azure lake and cobalt sky. Rugged Mt. Tallac, to my left, and the gentle dome of Freel Peak, on my right, compose the classic Lake Tahoe portrait. It’s two in the afternoon on a brilliant, clear, 20-degree Saturday in December. A few miles away, the holiday masses swarm the resorts of Heavenly Valley, Sierra-at-Tahoe and Kirkwood. Here, except for the distant bark of a local dog, the crisp pine-scented air around me is silent, the crowds non-existent, and the terrain and conditions ski-brochure perfect.
Welcome to Waterhouse, South Lake Tahoe’s powder playland.
For years the hidden playground of a determined group of South Shore locals, Waterhouse Peak has rested quietly right under the noses of many locals and visitors alike. Lying within seconds of a major thoroughfare, most people
speed by Waterhouse never realizing that one of Tahoe’s most perfect winter powder pockets lies just outside their vehicle’s door.
With a direct north facing slope to shield the snow from the damage of the California sun, Waterhouse’s aspect could not have been planned better by a team of ski area designers. The pitch of the mountain, with an angle just shy of 40 degrees at its steepest, is an excellent mix of intermediate grade to advanced — but not life-threatening — steeps. The density of the trees serve both to catch and hold the snow and to break the winds that can often pulverize choice Tahoe “feathers” into un-skiable wind packed crud. Secret stashes of powder may be found here weeks after a storm. But the trees here are larger and more widely spaced than other areas, which keeps the bark-dodging intimidation factor well within reasonable limits for most skiers and boarders.
Modern equipment and a bit of sweat equity provides complimentary season passes to this backcountry paradise to all manner of snow enthusiasts. The price of admission to this powdered Eden is simply desire and a willingness to earn your turns. Whether you’re on randonee or telemark skis, snowshoes or snowboards, splitboards or skinny 20-year-old backcountry sticks, the mountain is open and available to all.
Powder mornings at ski area parking lots can be chaotic. Despite its lack of any facilities, Waterhouse is no different. Cars disgorge gear and occupants, packs are stuffed, car stereos crank and dogs frolic in the snow ecstatic to be out. But at Waterhouse, once you step off the road and up onto the snow the chaos condenses to calm. Head for the trees and in less than a minute, traffic and road noise are left behind. From the roadside parking lot, the single, usually well-packed track up the mountain heads south. The route changes slightly after every storm, a gift to those that follow from those that lead.
After an hour or so, you’ve climbed 1,500 vertical feet to the ridge. If the day is clear and calm, you may choose to stay and soak in your well-earned view. From your ridge-top perch at almost 9,500 feet, you have a panorama of the Tahoe Basin and beyond: Slightly below and to the west is Echo Summit; to the east is another great backcountry ski mountain, Freel Peak; to the south, spread the meadows of Hope Valley, hemmed in by Stevens Peak, Elephants Back, Round Top and Kirkwood; and to the north, sparkling blue Lake Tahoe never fails to impress.
If the snow is flying or the wind is up, you may be on top just long enough to switch your mind and gear into descent mode: Clothing is quickly layered back on, climbing skins peeled off, split-boards locked together, snowshoes stowed and randonee heels locked into place. On a cold, windy day, nimble fingers can be transformed to frozen sausages in a matter of minutes, and the sweat from the climb can chill you to your core, so time is of the essence.
The reward for being out on those frostbite days is that the snow crystals lay together in gentle downy interlace. As you push off the top, a weightless sea foam of powder crystals billow over your ski tips. With no predetermined trails cut through the forest, every run down Waterhouse is a new and unique experiencea personal game to find the best line, shoot through tighter trees or drop off of bigger boulders. Savoring the uncut fluff and every sweet turn, the goal becomes to squeeze as many drops possible out of each and every Waterhouse run.
But the run down rarely quenches one’s thirst for Waterhouse’s nectar, for it’s always over much too quickly. Work or home responsibilities pull you back toward the parking lot. But if the snow is good and the sun is high, it’s easy to ignore the world beyond as you skin back up for just one more run.
The yearly increase in Waterhouse’s skier/boarder traffic is testimonial to what a unique and accessible area this is. But although the number of users has grown, the experience has not yet begun to degrade, perhaps because there are so many other great backcountry places nearby to explore as well.
Waterhouse is still a quiet and friendly playground where anyone willing to earn their own turns and be respectful of other users is welcome. Just as a playground should be.
LOGISTICS
Waterhouse Peak is at the top of Luther Pass on Highway 89 south of Lake Tahoe.
From Sacramento, take Highway 50 east to Meyers and turn south on Highway 89 toward Hope Valley. It’s seven miles from here to the parking area.
Coming up Highway 88 from Jackson, turn north onto Highway 89 at Pickett’s Junction in Hope Valley and go 4.3 miles to the turn-out on the left.
Currently, there is no requirement for a SnoPark permit on this section of Highway 89. However, when snow removal conditions exist, be sure to park as far to the side of the road as possible so as not to block traffic and snow
removal equipment.
The nearest services for Waterhouse are in Meyers at the junction of Highways 50 and 89.
Waterhouse is a backcountry area and is not patrolled by any professional ski rescue service. The nearest medical facility is Barton Hospital in South Lake Tahoe.
Oct/090
Bikes on Snow: Is ski-biking the next big winter sport?
Story by Samantha Staley • Photos by Matt Hanson
“Are you sure this is for me?” I ask Matt Hanson, founder and C.E.O. of Winter-X-Bike, as he unlocks a Turner DH Racer from his van’s roof rack. “Can you ride a bike?” he asks me without breaking his focus. “Well, yeah… ” Hanson hops off the van, pulls the bike down and hands it to me. “Then you can ride a ski-bike. Let’s go.”
I’m at Sierra-at-Tahoe ski resort in beautiful South Lake Tahoe learning to ski-bike for the first time. Matt is my teacher. He is passing through Tahoe to promote his Ski-MX kit that converts any bike into a ski-bike by exchanging the wheels and cranks for modified skis.
I’m feeling a little apprehensive. I’m 30 years old, can’t snowboard for the life of me, and although I grew up on skis, it’s been five years since I’ve taken them out of the attic.
I scramble to keep up with Hanson as he heads toward the mountain. “Wait… how do I get on the lift? How do I stop? How do I slow down? I don’t know if I should be doing this… ” Despite my protests, Hanson continues marching across the parking lot to the lifts.
We get in line. The lift loops around and scoops up some of the beginner boarders ahead of us. “Okay,” says Hanson, patting my bike seat. “Hop on and do exactly as I do.” I hop on the converted Turner, plant my feet, and wait for our turn. As soon as the next seat clears our path to collect the pair in front of us, we push off and glide our bikes to the red line.
I’m about to get on the lift to the bunny hill and I’m petrified. I haven’t felt this way since I was six years old and first learning to ski. Hanson explains the lift procedure to me. This basically goes in one ear and out the other, so when the seat comes around I just copy everything Hanson does. He brings the lift bar down and shows me how to hook my bike seat over the bar and then secure it with the safety strap. I’m no longer terrified. I’m a kid again, riding the lift for the first time.
But my next test is fast approaching… disembarking with this foreign contraption.
“They’re not going to slow the lift down for you,” says Hanson, practically reading my mind. Step by step, he breaks down the exit procedure. “Easier said than done!” I snap at him. The unloading ramp is two chairs ahead of us and Hanson already has his safety strap unlatched and is helping me with mine. Just in time, it’s undone and we lift up our bike seats and raise the bar. I angle the front of my bike up just like Matt’s and as soon as the ramp approaches our feet, the Turner engages with the snow and glides in front of me. I stand up and run ungracefully down the ramp with the bike, stopping when I think I’m safely out of the way. Hanson, meanwhile, jumps right onto his seat and rides off with both feet on the foot pegs.
Although he taught skiing and snowboarding for five years, Hanson says he hasn’t quite figured out the best way to teach ski-biking. “You can tell someone how to get on and off the lift, but they’re not going to get it until they actually do it. And as for the getting down the mountain, it’s just like riding a bike.”
There are some fundamental differences, however, that warrant mention. Chief among them: On a ski-bike you don’t have brakes, other than skidding your ski edges. And using your handlebars alone to turn without the proper body english is even less effective than on two wheels. Hanson says a half-hour lesson should be mandatory for any novice.
Thirty minutes. Is he kidding? I tried snowboarding for two full days and still can’t stand up. But Hanson has more faith in my abilities.
“Okay, try to follow in my tracks,” he says, pointing his Specialized Enduro down the hill. He pushes off, then brings both feet up on the pegs. He glides part way down the hill and then effortlessly carves to the left with a gentle lean. I try to follow his graceful line but end up dragging by boots on the snow all the way.
Hanson laughs. “That’s a good start. You can certainly keep your feet down as much as you want. You can even use your feet to stop, but the proper way is by carving the skis.”
With surging confidence, I race down past him and try to pull a stop. I stop all right. Face down in the snow. All part of the learning experience, though. By the time we reach the bottom of the bunny hill, I am gliding and pivoting and stopping with little trouble. Now it’s time for “Sugar ’n’ Spice,” a more challenging run.
Up the lift we go, to about 9,000 feet. The woman next to us is full of questions.
“So it works with any bike?” she asks.
“Any bike,” says Hanson. “Whether you’ve got a BMX, a road bike, an old frame you’ve got lying around in the garage from 20 years ago…doesn’t matter.”
“Beach cruiser?” she asks.
“Even a beach cruiser.”
“What about a tandem bicycle?” I ask, trying to be a smart ass.
“That’s next season,” Hanson says. “We even have a cross-country version.”
Early Beginnings
Like a fevered scientist, Hanson has been trying to cross pollinate bikes and skis for most of his life. At age 12, in the basement of his parent’s home in Rockville, Maryland, he carved out his first ski-bike conversion kit from a couple blocks of wood. “I loved biking and I loved skiing. I just needed to find a way to marry these two sports.”
He had a few bike frames laying around and some broken skis that he could never part with and the revelation struck him: Why not screw them together? Although his first results were expectedly crude, his concept was validated.
Twenty years later, after a great deal of refinement and an aeronautical science degree from Embry-Riddle University, Hanson’s ski-bike conversion kit has graduated from wood to aero-space grade aluminum, and from rigid screws to axles and torsion springs.
Three years ago, Hanson finally got the resources together to turn his boyhood tinkering into a business. After acquiring a patent, he launched Winter-X-Bike and hit the road, from trade shows to resorts, to promote the sport of freestyle ski-biking. “It starts with demand,” he says. “Nobody’s going to buy the Ski-MX kit if they don’t know about the sport or if resorts don’t allow it on their mountains.”
The number of ski-bike friendly resorts in the U.S. and Canada has grown from around 20 to more than 50 in the last three years.
Is this what it was like for Jake Burton, I wonder, 25 years ago, when hardly anyone had heard of snowboarding? “I didn’t invent foot-ski-less ski-biking,” Hanson clarifies. “If anyone should be credited, it should be Don Koski, who’s been designing ski-bikes with foot pegs for the past 30 years. I only came up with a way to make it more affordable and user-friendly because you can use the bike you already own.”
With his Ski-MX conversion kit, Hanson has helped to foster the sport by making it much more accessible. Whereas quality dedicated ski bikes can cost $1,000 to $1,500, for as little as $130 you can turn the bike you already have into a ripping winter toy. When the snow’s gone, just put the wheels back on and hang up the skis for next year.
Hanson spends the winter touring resort towns in his head-turning Winter-X-Bike van with all the bikes on the roof, spreading his hedonistic gospel to as many people as possible. He has produced an extreme ski-biking DVD that currently plays at several resorts. His invention has been the subject of TV features and magazine articles in such publications as Outside, the Los Angeles Times, and even Fortune Magazine.
“It’s a slow process, but you will see… this sport is going to take off,” he assures me.
Maybe by that time, I’ll be able to show off a tail-whip and a superman seat-grab… or at least learn to get off the lift gracefully.
Here’s a list of ski bikes that are available in the U.S.
The K2
Retails for $800. A dedicated ski-bike with a cushy seat that requires foot skis (included with purchase). Can be purchased from most K2 retailers or rented at some resorts. The K2 snowcycle is only available as a rental at
some ski resorts and is not available for purchase by the public.
- Pros: Available for rental at ski-bike friendly resorts.
- Cons: Restricted to winter use and a bit squirrelly without the foot skis.
The Koski Bike
Retails for $1500. A well-engineered, dedicated ski-bike with a large, comfortable seat, and a steep price. Can be purchased online from Koski Snowsports atwww.daydreamsunlimited.com/koski/
- Pros: Made to withstand the most daring stunts and did I mention the comfortable seat?
- Cons: Expensive.
The Ski-MX Kit from Winter-X-Bike
Retails for $129.95 without skis and $299.95 with skis. Can be purchased online from WinterXBike.com or from several Tahoe shops: Sports LTD, 123Bikes, Tahoe Bike and Ski, and Sierra Ski & Cycle Works.
- Pros: Allows year-round use, works on most bikes, affordable.
- Cons: If you can find a con, let me know.
Visit www.usasba.orgfor information on other manufacturers and the sport in general.
