Nov/070
Stealing the Swiss Arete
An Impromptu Ascent of the Palisades’ Mount Sill
Story and Photo by Andrew Sawyer
It was the first week of November and the high peaks of the Sierra were already wearing a substantial and scintillating blanket of snow.
At first scout, it seemed that my goal of climbing the Swiss Arete, on 14,153-foot Mount Sill, the second highest peak in the Palisades Range, would have to wait another year. Even with years of experience, I knew I was alone in winter conditions and that while attempting an ascent I would have little margin for error. But the day was spectacular. An invigorating stroll a little ways into the high country to see the Palisade Glacier and the granite spine of the Sierra Crest started out as just an innocent hike.
Known for having one of the best summit views in the entire Sierra, Mt. Sill, (originally called Nee-ma-mee-shee, or “Guardian of the Valley” by the indigenous Paiute of the area) features 10 established routes of varied quality and difficulty levels. Of these, the Swiss Arete route is the acknowledged classic, coursing its way up an inspiring granite prow.
I should have known better than to go there. By the time I made it to Third Lake, the stunning winter mountain environment had already dangerously and irreversibly lured the climber in me. I had underestimated the pull of the summit and my stubborn determination to push onwards and upwards.
Moving deeper into the landscape, the complex jumble of high peaks and multiple drainages splitting the scene confused me for a moment. I considered stopping for another rest before turning back, since it was already past noon and the altitude was wearing me out quickly.
The top called me on and it was hard to resist. I scrambled out onto the rocky moraine picking my way up, over, and around slippery chunks of snow and ice covered stone. The tedious footing made progress slow. A ways further I found myself standing at the toe of the glacier, surrounded by the noble Palisades – Mount Sill, Polemonium, North Palisade, Starlight, Thunderbolt, Agassiz. Suddenly tired, I stopped for another rest.
Walking onto the glacier itself, my feet slipped on the icy blue suncups. Soon, I stumbled to the edge of a deep, dark crevasse. This small California ice patch was as serious and perhaps as unforgiving as the massive glaciers of the Himalaya and Cascade Ranges where I had sojourned before. The frigid blast of air flowing from the crevasse shocked me into a familiar state of keen awareness necessary to survive in this unforgiving landscape. Again I considered retreating to the desert but now it was too late: I had spied the cleaved edge of Mount Sill’s east face – the Swiss Arete.
Moving across the glacier, fully aware of the crevasse’s icy chamber, I made my way to the pass separating the basins. Rising like a ship’s prow from an ocean of boulders, the Swiss Arete split the sky. Though frosted white with snow, the line of ascent showed enough rock to lure me onto the precipice, despite the late hour of the day and the fast approaching shadows. Already soaking wet with sweat, the foolhardiness of the venture I was about to commit to was not lost on me.
The climbing began with moderate scrambling up fractured slabs then quickly switched to exposed jamming and smearing. Many holds, cracks, and ledges were filled with snow. Several hundred feet above the talus slopes it became apparent that my only escape from the arête was up. The climber’s game had proven dangerously intoxicating once again. Past the point of no return, I dug deep and remained solidly focused. Fortunately, most of the climbing was easy and fun, blending a full array of smears, jams, jugs and edges that fulfill the Swiss Arete’s reputation as a mountaineer’s fantasy route.
Halfway up its height, the arête became steeper and more slender. Generally speaking, the route finding was obvious – follow the arête – but the climbing was surprisingly intricate. Finding the path of least resistance was more cerebral than I had anticipated. Several short headwalls, some with slightly higher grades of difficulty, were interspersed with ledges that allowed me to rest and warm my hands. More importantly, these ledges gave me a chance to relax my mind from the demands of climbing un-roped in such an exposed place.
A heavy shade fell onto the eastern ramparts of the range, bringing with it a foreboding wintry atmosphere. Looking above, the summit still appeared to be a long ways off. Soon I confronted the most difficult section of the climb. Standing on a sizable ledge, I had the option of negotiating an ice-covered slab with only a few reasonable holds. My other choice was stemming across a void to reach a hand crack hidden in a shallow corner. I pondered both options carefully. The critical nature of the decision added increasing pressure to the situation. The clock was ticking and I knew I had to make a move.
In an attempt to dodge the more exposed and seemingly more committing option of getting into the crack, I began working the icy slab. I quickly realized the slab was too slick, too insecure. I carefully downclimbed back to the ledge to try the stemming problem. From here I extended my leg across the gap and pressed my foot on the opposite side of the granite corner. The traction was good, but it was still too far a reach to jam my hand in the crack. I backed off and looked again at the icy slab.
Concern and fear began to grow. Far below the Owens Valley basked in warm sunshine, perhaps taunting me as my predicament took on more serious proportions. Again I reached for the crack, and once again I could not quite reach a solid hand jam. Resting, I stood on the ledge watching the shadow of the Sierra stretch across the Owens Valley like a dark curtain. My options were limited. One option was to wait for hypothermia and a slow death sometime in the night; the other was to attempt the crack again, risking a 500-foot fall to the jagged talus.
Figuring it would be better to die trying, I stemmed my foot across the gap, planting my foot more aggressively this time. Summoning all my courage I leaned out further this time, and slotted a numb hand-jam. Though I couldn’t feel the rock very well I committed to it and pulled myself off the ledge. Ten feet of near vertical crack climbing brought me to easier climbing again and a chance to breathe a sigh of relief.
The rest of the climb passed uneventfully, and I soon found myself on the snow-covered summit. Physically and mentally fatigued, I channeled all of my available emotional energy toward solving the problem of getting down safely. As I descended, I was keenly aware that too many climbing accidents happen on the way down from the summit.
Following an intuitive path, I soon arrived at a rappel station. Relieved to be on the right path, I quickly committed myself to a long, slippery chimney system. Out of food, out of water, and not wanting to stop for any reason, I eventually reached a ledge about 100 feet above the base of the mountain. At this point I knew I would survive this impromptu and foolhardy adventure. As I scrambled down the last of the technical descent, I was filled with a mixture of joy and relief.
California native Andrew Sawyer is a perennial traveler of the American West. For the past five years, he’s been living out of his vehicle, backpack or suitcase which has allowed him the freedom to ski, surf, hike, climb, and bike all over the country. He has climbed countless peaks in the Sierra, Cascades and Rockies, as well as in the Himalaya and Andes.
Nov/070
The Snow Dreams Are Made Of
The Art of Snowboard Porn with Standard Film’s Mike Hatchett
By Seth Lightcap
Danny Kass in the pipe at Aspen. Photxo by Matt Powers
Whether you’re a skier or snowboarder, this time of year your dreams are surely filled with but one thing … powder.
Whether boot top, hip deep, or snorkel deep, floating through untracked powder snow is a sublime experience. One of nature’s most ephemeral gifts, powder rewards both ego and soul. It is no wonder that the delights of powder are likened to vices like champagne and cocaine. Slashing fresh tracks on your skis or board is an addictive natural high that leaves you wanting more.
But alas, frolicking in powder snow is not an everyday reality. There are typically only a couple dozen powder days each winter, and competition for fresh tracks both in-bounds and out can be ferocious. Sad but true, powder is a tough score despite your desires.
While not nearly as exhilarating as a chilly face shot, a good ski movie has been known to calm powdery fixations if there is no fresh snow in sight. It may only be virtual reality, but a steep-and-deep shred flick can be a welcome distraction when longing and anticipation are all you got. When it’s November and the hills are still brown, riding powder from the comfy confines of your couch can be soothing relief.
Lake Tahoe has always figured prominently in ski flicks because of the incredible terrain, bluebird days, and steady influx of top talent. One of the most prominent film production companies based in Tahoe is Standard Films. Founded in 1991 by brothers Mike and Dave Hatchett, Standard has produced 17 feature snowboard films.
Known for their impeccable footage and an emphasis on filming progressive backcountry freestyle, Standard’s productions capture some of the most technical and breathtaking snowboarding ever filmed. Their first 10 films, the “Totally Board” series, are legendary documentaries of the sport.
ASJ recently caught up with Standard’s founder, Mike Hatchett, to learn more about his winning production formula, and Standard’s new release, “Catch The Vapors.”
ASJ: What inspired you to start filming snowboarding?
Mike: Greg Stumps film “Blizzard Of Ahhhhs” and my brother Dave.
ASJ: When you first started filming in the 1990s, what action or terrain features were you looking for?
Mike: We were mainly looking for short steep lines around the Donner Summit area. Back then the filming was less planned out. We just filmed whatever looked like fun.
ASJ: What cameras/hardware/software did you use to edit and produce the first few “Totally Board” movies?
Mike: Camera-wise it was the Ari-S 16mm. Sometimes we would use a Hi-8 video camera to capture lifestyle moments. Non-linear editing had just come into use. The software was Media 100 on a MAC computer. This technology was very new and nothing like what we have today.
ASJ: The “Totally Board” film series introduced the “standards” of Standard films – exposed big mountain freestyle, lots of natural features, an emphasis on big moves on big terrain. How did this style develop?
Mike: When my brother Dave and I teamed up with Mack Dawg in 1992 we had a game plan. Mack Dawg filmed most of the freestyle and terrain park riding, and we filmed the big mountain riding. We have always had a huge passion for riding powder so filming snowboarding in the backcountry was really the only thing we wanted to do. After TB4, Mack Dawg wanted to film freestyle only, so we parted ways. After that it seemed like we got even more into the big mountain filming and riding. Alaska was just getting put on the map and when we met Doug Coombs it was on. Doug was one of the main factors to our success in Alaska.
ASJ: The TB series showcased some of the proudest Alaska lines ever filmed. Did you go out every year trying to out do the last year’s epics?
Mike: We always wanted to step it up if the riders and the avalanche conditions permitted. But at one point we realized the riders had hit some very steep spines and ridden some very exposed lines. We knew getting too much closer to the edge might not be smart. I feel like our film TB5 had some of the best stuff. The conditions were just epic that year. We had this amazing session in late spring–almost everyone had left Valdez. It snowed for a week then cleared. We had the entire range to ourselves. Noah did Super Spines. Rippey did the Sphinx. After Rippey hit the Sphinx, we put the cameras down and rode it for fun.
ASJ: Everybody wants to see fresh terrain. How do you scout and select new areas?
Mike: We just look around, use maps, and do our homework. It’s easier in a helicopter because you can just say, “Fly me towards that epic looking peak.” On a snowmobile it takes longer and the route finding can be tricky. Each year we have to go deeper and further away from the main areas to find new stuff and escape the crowds.
ASJ: What makes Tahoe a premier filming location?
Mike: The weather, the ease of getting into epic locations, and the maritime snowpack. I like the wet snow. It sticks to the steep faces and rocks better than places like Colorado. Tahoe has great steep short runs that are perfect for filming. Overall the avalanche conditions are easier to predict in Tahoe than any other interior snowpack. You still have to be careful and know what you are doing though. Anything can happen.
ASJ: You must have some secret Tahoe filming spots?
Mike: Yes, we do have a handful of secret spots. For the lesser known spots, I always make the riders and any photographers swear to never tell other people about the spot. If someone gives a secret spot up, they are out of our crew forever.
ASJ: How do you select riders to work with? What role do the sponsors play?
Mike: It’s mostly word of mouth and recommendations from sponsors. The sponsors play a huge role since they are helping to pay for the production of the film. We are always keeping an eye out for new talent. The riders that we film have to be highly skilled, hard working, professional, and overall, a cool person.
ASJ: What do you look for in a rider’s body demeanor in the air?
Mike: Style is a major factor. A rider needs to hold their grabs for a long time and they need to not be flapping their arms around. Quiet body language in the air is essential.
ASJ: What Standard rider has been the most influential to the style and technical progression of snowboarding?
Mike: It is difficult to mention just one rider. I would like to list 20 riders. But Johan Olofsson is one of the best riders I have ever filmed. The way he mixes big mountain into freestyle is just amazing.
ASJ: Viewers have come to expect that the intensity of the action will increase each year. How do you ensure that you meet that demand for the latest and greatest footage each season?
Mike: Snowboarding has progressed to a very high level. We always try and film that progression. But as far as going big and actually landing a trick, it’s going to be difficult to go too much bigger and still land. I want to stay cutting edge, but I also want my riders to come home at the end of the day. We have been trying to get more creative on the filming aspect, as well as having the riders pick more creative lines and do cool jib stuff.
ASJ: What is Standard’s recipe for balancing action with drama?
Mike: It’s 80-90% snowboarding and 10-20% lifestyle/storyline filler. We like to let the snowboarding speak for itself. We also produce a snowboard show on Fuel TV, and that has a lot more storyline in it.
ASJ: How do you film new perspectives on the same old tabletop jump or rail?
Mike: That’s an ongoing quest. There are already a lot of amazing shots out there. Creating new filming angles using zip lines, helicopters, point-of–view and follow cams are some of the latest techniques.
ASJ: What riders and locations can we look forward to in “Catch The Vapors?”
Mike: My favorite location from “Catch The Vapors” is Terrace, BC. Mark Landvik, Danny Kass, John Jackson, Jeremy Jones, and Chas Guldemond all have amazing sections.
ASJ: What type of cameras and editing hardware/software do you currently use?
Mike: We still use the Ari-S 16mm film camera. We are starting to use the Panasonic HVX-200 video camera. We edit on a MAC with Final Cut Pro.
ASJ: What is the hardest part about editing and producing a new movie?
Mike: Some of the hardest parts about editing are the long hours and dealing with computer malfunctions. Also, trying to stay fresh with ideas. As far as producing a film, getting all sponsors and riders organized each year is a lot of work. But overall the most difficult task is staying on the pulse of finding the good powder and being there to film it.
ASJ: How would you describe your relationship with snowboarding?
Mike: Professionally it’s a great thing for me. I feel privileged to be able to make a living off of snowboarding. The main reason I make snowboarding films is so I can ride as much as possible and live the lifestyle. I especially like riding with friends at Squaw Valley. KT-22 is the single best chairlift in the world on a powder day, hands down!
Nov/070
Winter Mountaineering: Getting Out in the “Off” Season
By SP Parker
Photo: SP Parker
Learning the techniques for climbing thin ice on Chouinard Falls, Lee Vining Canyon.
Don’t put your summit fever away for the year. Once temperatures drop and snow falls, your climbing rack can be put to good use aiming for the cold-capped peaks of winter. Sure, winter in the mountain ranges of California can be cold and stormy but winter mountaineering provides the chance to explore the state’s peaks at a time when few folks reach them.
The Sierra Nevada and Cascade regions bless Californians with a playground where blue skies are the norm and brief storms can dump tons of fluffy white sand in the sandbox, so to speak, overnight. Meanwhile, California rarely endures the weeks of bad weather common in many other of the world’s mountain ranges.
Since the stakes are higher in the inclement conditions of winter, you need to be prepared with solid equipment, the right skills and a proper mindset. Make an investment and approach it with a ready mind and credit cards standing by.
Equipment: The Difference Between You and a Popsicle
Your local gear shop will be happy to help and glad to see you coming. To deal with extreme and fickle conditions, you’ll need more technical gear than you would in summer. In fact, aiming for peaks in the winter requires more gear, period.
Safety Starts with Being Warm and Dry
Having proper footwear is essential. Don’t skimp on footwear when the weather gets so cold that even the mercury shivers. If you are truly serious about winter mountaineering, fork out for high-end plastic boots. Plastic boots stay drier and insulate better. However, some people are very happy with leather boots. Whichever you choose, look for boots that don’t pinch, bind or bang up your shins. Buy boots a little loose since your toes will stay warmer if they have room to wiggle. Avoid the temptation to fill the space by wearing extra socks, which can cut off circulation to your toes. Frostbite damaged toes are souvenirs that can’t be returned or repaired.
Hands also need good insulation. Mittens will keep you warmer than gloves, although you’ll compromise dexterity. Wear a pair of liner gloves inside your mittens. That way, you can quickly pull off the shells if necessary and then yank them back on before the cold settles into your bones. Make sure that your mittens and gloves have an attachment system, such as a wrist loop, or clip to the jacket. Too often, gloves get sucked away by a strong wind, never to be seen again.
You should also invest in technical undergarments. Buy a stash of synthetic or wool (the new crop is made of soft, superfine weaves) under layers in a variety of thicknesses. Experiment with layering undershirts and bottoms. Eventually, you’ll find the right combination to keep you warm, but not too warm, in a variety of conditions.You’ll also want to buy a good waterproof, windproof jacket or shell, pair of pants and gaiters (to keep the snow out of your boots). Look for outer layers that are made of Gore-Tex, HyVent or similar windproof/waterproof materials. These fabrics will help you stay warm, even in a serious winter tempest.
Bivy or Bust
If you plan on overnight expeditions, there is great gear available to keep you cozy and protected from the elements while you sleep.
A down sleeping bag is highly preferable since it is warmer and less bulky than a synthetic bag. But just how warm a bag will you need? Manufacturer’s ratings are pretty subjective and everyone has a different metabolic rate. One person’s oven might be another person’s freezer. Women will likely want to invest in a bag tailored to the female form. Once you have found a bag shape that fits you well, look for a version with a water-resistant shell. Your breath will probably condense overnight in the tent. Besides, at some point somebody will spill their hot chocolate or soup on your bag.
Find a tent that is easy to pitch in strong winds and can support the weight of a night’s snowfall. Do your research; sit in the tent before buying it and ask yourself if you can live in it for a few days. For snow camping, color is an often overlooked feature, but it matters when the landscape is white and conditions are bleak. Yellow or orange are good choices for visibility, and also offer warmth and cheer when you’re tent bound. Finally, look for a tent designed for four season use and make sure that it features plenty of tie downs. A poorly made tent that lets snow or moisture seep in will make for a miserable night’s rest.
Over-snow Transportation
In most conditions you’ll need to use either snowshoes or skis to access the winter backcountry. Snowshoeing is easy and inexpensive. The newer generation shoes with Lexan frames and hypalon decks are far more user-friendly than the old wooden Alaskan-style shoes. Look for snowshoes with metal side rails on the base and a metal claw under the toe since these features will keep you from slipping when traversing or climbing straight up a steep slope.
While snowshoeing is beginner-friendly, skiing in the backcountry requires real skills and technique. Try renting first to find what equipment works best for you. The retail price of a full setup will put a major dent in your credit card limit so get it right the first time.
If you are a downhill skier consider a randonnée ski setup (also know as an AT or alpine touring setup). This skiing style allows you to release your heel for uphill climbing and lock it down for the downhills. Randonnée boots are usually softer than downhill boots so take them out for a day at your local resort to get familiar with them.
Telemark gear provides another skiing option, but you’ll need the requisite skills to take it to the backcountry.
Whatever you choose, the bottom line is to be conservative. You will be carrying a heavy pack and if you are on skis this will affect your skiing enormously. You will not get in the turns you usually do. And if you fall often, any time or energy advantage skiing provides will be burned up. If you doubt your skiing ability, take snowshoes.
Finally, always bring crampons and an ice axe, even if you think they may not be necessary. These traditional winter climbing tools may be unnecessary in soft snow conditions, but for firm snow they are a definite must.
You may need a bigger pack to carry all this equipment. If so, find one that will fit all your gear while carrying it as snugly as possible to minimize pack swing while skiing or snowshoeing. Remember the first law of backpacking: “Gear always expands to fill available space.” Don’t buy a pack bigger than you can reasonably carry when loaded.
Skills
There is no substitute for the combination of preparation and experience. The best way to begin is to take winter mountaineering and avalanche courses from a recognized guide outfit (see sidebar for a list of Nor Cal region guide services). You’ll learn heaps and meet great people, possibly some future adventure partners. Next, go with competent friends and learn from them while you rack up a few ascents and some hard-earned experience.
Avalanche Safety
In winter months, avalanches are a primary concern. The danger of encountering one rises quickly after a storm. An avalanche course that teaches you avalanche assessment is the single best investment you can make for safe winter travel in the backcountry. Just remember that avalanche assessment is tricky; in a given situation, you may never know if you made the right choice or simply got away with something. Experience is ultimately the best way to become proficient at recognizing danger. Before you head out every season it’s a good idea to read and review avy science books. One of the most popular and concise is Snow Sense by noted avy forecasters Jill Fredston and Doug Fessler. No matter what, you should definitely take an avy course from certified instructors (look for AMGA or IFMGA certification) for on-the-snow practice and understanding.
Tuning Up for Exertion and Elevation
Climbing lore has it that in the 1970s, British climbers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker slept in a frozen meat locker to test their gear and toughen up before climbing the Himalayan peak of Changabang. You don’t have to go to that extreme but you will want to be in good shape. Running is a good way to build cardiovascular fitness. To better simulate a long climb like Shasta, crank away on a Stairmaster to build the quad strength needed for steep climbing.
For high elevation climbs, acclimatization is of utmost importance. Unfortunately, this is largely a function of time rather than exercise. A sure formula for failure is to jump in the car from sea level and then start hiking at 8,000 feet early the next morning. Before long your head will be spinning you’ll feel ready to throw up. To avoid feeling this bad, let the body adapt to the lowered oxygen levels of elevation in smaller chunks. Altitude sickness can hit hard so monitor your body. If you don’t feel well, go lower and wait. Most people don’t have major problems but it is possible to develop pulmonary or cerebral edemas, which can result in death.
The Right Mindset
Perhaps the most important thing to bring on a winter mountaineering is the right mindset. Don’t push for a peak in winter with an “at-all-cost” approach, which can backfire. Above all, be careful. If you don’t like the conditions – head home. The mountains will still be there whether you tag the top this time or the next.
Originally from New Zealand, SP Parker has lived in the Eastern Sierra for 25 years. Certified in rock, alpine and ski disciplines by the American Mountain Guides Association and with international IFMGA certification, he runs a guide service based in Bishop and leads trips throughout the Sierra and worldwide.
