Aug/110
Whitney’s East Buttress
A sea of world class granite in the High Sierra; Mt. Whitney looker's right
Climbing the most direct, aesthetic route up our highest peak
Story and photos by Brennan Lagasse
Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the United States outside of Alaska. Clearly visible from the sage-surrounded frontier town of Lone Pine, thousands of hikers, climbers, skiers, and mountaineers attempt Whitney’s summit each year (14,505’).
One of the most celebrated aspects of Mt. Whitney, beyond its stature as the highest point in the lower 48, is that there are no fewer than three distinct ways to reach Whitney’s broad summit plateau.
Despite the incredible snow year we had in the Sierra, now that we’re into late summer, it’s prime time for hiking the Mt. Whitney trail (easiest choice), scrambling up the Mountaineers Route, or climbing one of the many excellent rock-climbing routes to the top.
Somewhat overlooked due to the more famous neighboring route known as the East Face, the East Buttress (Class III, 5.8, aka, the PeeWee Route) is a high quality backcountry climb that can hold its own in a sea of moderate multi-pitch classics that line the Highway 395 corridor.
Why? The East Buttress takes the most direct route to the top of Whitney, is somewhat sustained, and is much more aesthetic than the neighboring East Face.
It should also be noted that the route has been called a 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8 depending on whom you ask. For the purposes of this article, in the author’s opinion, the climb feels like a 5.7, but we’ll go with Moynier and Fiddler’s rating of 5.8 (from “Climbing California’s High Sierra” by John Moynier and Claude Fiddler) just in case.
In the scheme of things the crux moves are located near the bottom of the dihedral on pitch two. From there, while sustained, the climbing is much easier, very fluid, and again, in the author’s opinion, deserving of the grade 5.7
Coming in at eight pitches, the East Buttress isn’t the longest classic trad climb out there. However, based on its locale, coupled with the unique feeling one gets when they top out on the highest shard of land in the continental U.S, climbing the East Buttress is a must-do for any alpine climber skilled enough to make this adventure happen.
While the climb is often done in one big day starting at the Whitney Portal Trailhead, many climbers choose to break up the trip into a two or even three-day affair. The one caveat with this choice is the added effort it takes to lug a heavy pack up into the zone to camp, as well as the need to score a lottery-style permit. If you make a one-day push you can avoid the permit hassle — you’ll just be pretty wiped out come sunset.
As far as gear goes, a standard alpine rack will do. Cams up to 3 inches with one set of medium nuts and long runners are perfect. You can get’er done with a 50m rope, but a 60m rope will let you skip a pitch if you’re feeling it. A helmet is surely recommended. Even though there isn’t much loose rock on the route, the Mountaineer’s Route is super loose (and it’s your down-climb), and there is some loose rock on the East Buttress, so it’s definitely advisable to wear one.
To access the East Buttress take the normal Mountaineer’s Route from the Whitney Portal Trailhead to Iceberg Lake. Reading up on the approach in a local guidebook is recommended, as there are some twists and turns to the approach, but most savvy climbers won’t have a problem making it to the base of the route. I recommend Supertopo’s book, High Sierra Climbing (Note: Supertopo also calls this route 5.7).
Once you’re at Iceberg Lake (12,400’), you have about 1,000 more feet to gain through talus, covering some third-class terrain, before getting ready to climb. Aim for the right side of the buttress above Iceberg Lake. Locate a notch behind the tower, throw your pack down, rack up, and get climbing!
If you’re spot on, the Mountaineer’s Route should be off to your right, and the climbing will be brilliant right away. Eight pitches is all it takes to get to the top. Suddenly, you’ll be pulling up over the lip of Whitney, probably startling some hikers catching their breaths after the long hike up the Whitney Trail. They’ll likely be astounded that some “crazies” (aka, you) chose a more difficult way to the top.
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Want a guide?
The Sierra Mountain Center out of Bishop guides the East Buttress route of Whitney. They use a client- to-guide ratio of two to one.
Since the first night’s camp near Iceberg Lake is at more than 12,000 feet, they highly recommend clients spend at least one night at moderate altitude (more than 8,000 feet) just prior to the trip. According to SMC, “80 percent of our unsuccessful attempts on these routes fail due to problems with altitude. (And the balance due to weather.)”
For more information, contact SMC at 760-873-8526 or visit www.sierramountaincenter.com.
Mar/090
Catch That Shot!
Sports Photography Tips from Sierra sharp shooter Christian Pondella
By Seth Lightcap • Photos by Christian Pondella
Skier Chris Davenport climbs and skis the Mountaineer’s Route on Mt. Whitney, spring 2008.
Do you ever wish your camera had an auto setting labeled ‘Amazing Action Shot’?
You’re not alone.
Despite how easy it is to flip your camera to the ‘sports’ setting and hit the shutter button as your buddy blows past you skiing, biking, or paddling, it’s surprisingly hard to come away from the moment with a stellar image of the action. Whether the shot is well–framed but blurry or focused but missing half a head, there are a lot of ways a one-chance shot can be flubbed.
Sure you can blame a little bit of your inability on a slow point and shoot camera, but the reality is, catching a striking action shot takes a lot more skill than just aiming and firing from the hip.
Mammoth local and Red Bull USA photographer Christian Pondella knows a little something about what it takes to fill a memory card with sick pics. Having published work in just about every major ski publication, as well as, Outside, Men’s Journal, Sports Illustrated and GQ, Pondella has built a career around producing intimate images of adventure sports’ best athletes basking in their glory.
As an exclusive treat for all of you aspiring action photographers, Adventure Sports Journal caught up with Pondella to pick his brain on the forethought and technique he applies to every jaw-dropping frame he shoots. If you’ve ever wondered how shots like Pondella’s look so good in the magazines, read on for a few tips and tricks to help bring your shutter skills up to speed with the pros.
What are the basic ingredients of a great action shot?
The best action sports photos express the dynamics of an experience or event using great light and a cool subject.
What kind of light do you look for?
My favorite photos combine light and shadows. I avoid shooting in direct sunlight if possible. Generally you’re looking for the sun off to one side, but still illuminating your subject. Don’t be afraid to break the rules though. I’ll often include the sun in my photos.
How do you capture dynamic movement?
The best way to make your photos dynamic is to catch your subject in a good position. If you’re serious about the shot, talk to your subject and see where they are going to go. Set it up so that you are framed and focused on the spot you think they are going to look best along their route.
What if the action is not overly impressive?
Change the focus of your intended image. Many times I will frame a beautiful landscape shot and try to place the subdued action perfectly within it.
What is your favorite size lens?
I like to get close to the subject so I use wide angle lenses a lot. Getting close gives you a more intimate feeling of the subject and what’s going on.
What are your sunny day camera settings for action shots?
If your shooting sports it’s best to learn how to configure your camera manually. Choose the manual or shutter speed priority setting; set the ISO at 100 or 200, shutter speed between 640-1000, and aperture at F5.6 or F8.
What angles do you recommend for ski/snowboard photos?
For snow sports shots I like to be on the slope with the skier right next to me or up slope looking down at the skier. From those two angles you can show the steepness of the slope. A lot of amateurs shoot straight up slope from below and it makes everything look flat.
Where do you keep your camera while you’re skiing on a photo shoot?
I usually keep my camera in my backpack and pull it out to set up a shot. If the line is really steep and I don’t want to take my pack off I’ll just slip it over my neck and into my jacket.
How do you dry snowy equipment in the field?
The best thing I’ve found to safely dry wet cameras and lenses is a leather chamois from the auto parts store. They are better than a goggle cloth because there so absorbent. I cut them up into small squares to take with me.
Any thoughts on winter camping with camera equipment?
Be cautious with your equipment going through drastic temperature differences. When you go warm to cold or cold to warm that’s when your equipment will fog up. If I’m winter camping I’ll leave my camera in the vestibule and just take the batteries inside the tent.
Any last advice for successful sports shooting?
Whenever you can, try to gain a vantage point or perspective where you can shoot the action from the same level it’s happening.
To see more of Pondella’s photo prowess visit www.christianpondella.com.
