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Oct/09
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Catching Up with ‘Shred-Sticker’

Photo by Will Wissman

Name: Cody Townsend

Age: 24

Base Camp: Santa Cruz/Squaw Valley

Occupation: Professional big mountain freeskier, aka “shred-sticker”

Sponsors: Salomon, Swatch, VonZipper, Hestra Gloves, Squaw Valley, EvoGear, C.L.U.B.

Favorite Ski Porn: “Dumb and Dumber”

Cody Townsend has had a big year. As if taking second at the invitation-only Big Mountain Freeskiing and Riding Comp in the European Alps (only eight international skiers were invited) and winning the Red Bull Cold Rush’s Chinese Downhill Championship this past winter, he also had the luck to ski with Chris Davenport in the Chugach Range in Alaska for a segment in the latest Warren Miller installment, Playground.

ASJ stopped him in his fresh tracks to ask him about his epic year and why skiing, especially big mountain skiing, continues to capture so much attention.

ASJ: Why take up skiing rather snowboarding? How did that happen?

I started when I was two so there wasn’t much snowboarding yet and by the time snowboarding became cool I was already dead set on skiing. My dad even switched to snowboarding while I still opted for the shred-sticks. It was quite the anomaly back then to have my pops snowboarding and me skiing but I knew what I liked and wouldn’t change for anything.

ASJ: When there are guys like you and Simon Dumont out there, skiing is starting to look cool again. Why do you think there’s a shift back toward riding sticks?

Statistically, skiing has made a huge comeback and snowboarding has stalled for the last couple of years – yet you wouldn’t know that by watching TV or checking out a magazine. The media still hypes snowboarding ten-fold more than skiing. But with guys like Simon doing his unbelievable stuff in the pipe and Sammy Carlson shredding park with a good attitude and a marketable style, skiing will continue to grow in the eyes of the public. Big mountain skiing is a bit different though. It’s always been here and will be here for the long run. Skiing’s history is rooted in the big mountains.

ASJ: You’re a Santa Cruz local and a surfer. Do you think that many of the guys in the water realize that you’re one of the best young guns on skis today? Any chance you’ll be getting competitive on the waves, as well?

Some of the surfers I grew up with and some of the Point boys (Pleasure Point) are starting to take notice. It’s cool, but at the same time it doesn’t really matter to me if they know about my skiing or not. Skiing and surfing are two totally different worlds for me and when you’re in the water the only thing that’s excusable to talk about is surfing. Oh, and a snowball has a better chance in hell than me ever competing in surfing.

ASJ: With all that’s happened, does this feel like the year in which you’ve officially arrived as one of the top young skiers?

I do have to admit it’s a little weird being recognized for something I would do every day regardless if people ever paid attention. But it has allowed me to ski in some amazing places and ski with some amazing people, and I guess I’ll take the recognition if it continues to allow me to do what I love.

ASJ: You’re also going to school at UC Santa Cruz to get your degree in language studies/linguistics. Tell us about how you’re juggling that, too.

I’m in school right now and usually attend summer and fall semesters with an occasional spring semester thrown in if I have to get some classes done. I’m one quarter away from graduating and couldn’t be happier to finally get it done. Balancing skiing and school has been extremely taxing and I’ve worked extraordinarily hard on getting through college.

ASJ: What’s up next?

A busy year of shred-sticking.

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Oct/09
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FYI

Photo: Keith Kelsen
Courtesy of Mountain Bikers of Santa Cruz

www.mbosc.org

Q. When I am riding my bike in an area that allows horseback riding, biking and hiking, who should yield to whom?

A. According to Steve Musillami, Statewide Trails Manager for California State Parks, there is “no legal policy on who has the right of way.” Rather, the state park system has “etiquette recommendations for trail usage.” Most state parks and many public recreation areas allow multi-use recreation. Some areas are clearly marked as being only for one type of user, such as pedestrians. In cases where hikers, bikers and equestrians meet up on the trail, however,

all users should “walk, run or ride on the right and pass on the left just like in a car,” recommends Musillami.

Beyond that, Musillami says that bikers should try to yield to all other users while both hikers and bikers yield to equestrians because there is an unpredictable animal involved. Horses can spook easily, especially when a bike approaches them quickly from the side or behind. The International Mountain Biking Association’s (IMBA) Rules of the Trail (www.imba.com/about/trail_rules) further suggests that bike riders “passing horses use special care and follow directions from the horseback riders (ask if uncertain).” “Yielding means slow down, establish communication, be prepared to stop if necessary and pass safely,” IMBA explains. Essentially, good etiquette on the trail helpsto avoid accidents and fosters good will among multi-use visitors of public spaces.

Christa Fraser


Q. I recently went for a bike ride with a friend who ruptured her spleen by crashing her bike and landing on her handlebars. She had no real bruising or cuts or anything but she did go into severe shock. Later, we found out that she could have died. What should we have looked for to determine that she had internal bleeding?

A. the spleen is one of those organs, like the gallbladder and the appendix that seem expendable in the human body. However, injury or trauma to one of these organs can still result in serious health problems, such as shock, infection and internal bleeding. Particularly in the case of the spleen, injury or trauma can actually lead to death in a relatively short period of time—within a few hours of injury. This is due to the spleen’s role in the body’s lymphatic system as an additional filter to keep foreign invaders and old red blood cells out of the bloodstream. This fist-sized organ, which is located just behind the left rib cage, is essentially a reservoir of blood and other bodily fluids so when it ruptures, a massive

amount of internal bleeding can occur instantly, according to Dr. Warren Scott, official Hawaii Ironman Physician. Fortunately, the injured person may give a few physical clues that a trip to the hospital

is necessary. These clues may be transient in nature, however. The first clue is simply the site of injury the left ribcage or flank. Snowboarders and mountain bikers are highly likely to experience this type of

injury because they often sustain blows to their midsection by crashing. If someone displays any of the following symptoms after sustaining a blow to the left ribcage or abdominal area, take them to the hospital immediately (Avoid hiking them out as this may worsen their condition.):

  • Pale and sweaty skin
  • Vomiting
  • Abdominal pain or tenderness
  • Pain in the left shoulder or neck area (victim may walk as though favoring this side of the body)
  • Rapid heart rate or breathing
  • Low blood pressure
  • Sudden ‘sense of doom’
  • Mental confusion

In the past, a ruptured spleen was surgically removed. While a patient of a splenectomy or spleen removal can survive just fine, they will likely become more susceptible to certain types of infections in the future, Scott explains. Fortunately, even the most severe ruptures may repair themselves naturally with a lot of rest and medical care.

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Oct/09
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Destination: Santa Cruz

By Christa Fraser

While municipal bigwigs argue whether Santa Cruz or Huntington Beach can claim the title of being the original Surf City, Santa Cruzians continue to live the California beach lifestyle. With an envious blend of coastline and public open space, local garages are commonly packed with bikes, surfboards and kayaks rather than cars.

The county comprises a variety of distinct terrain—redwood and oak groves, marine terraces, expansive meadows, long, sandy beaches, and coastal mountains.

November and December can be one of the best times to visit. Average temperatures range from the mid-60s to the 80s. Winter’s big waves are just picking up, the hiking and biking trails are not too muddy and the beaches are nearly deserted.

Autumn visitors can find an inexhaustible list of outdoor activities within a short drive of the Bay Area.

Old Cabin trail in Wilder Ranch State Park.

Photo by Mark Woodhead

Biking

Rocky hillsides, root-filled redwood forests and miles of terraced cliffs give this bike-loving community a reason to hit the trails on a regular basis. From a simple people-watching cruise along West Cliff to a zone-inducing singletrack, Santa Cruz County offers all kinds of two-wheeled recreation.

Cruising

  • West Cliff – From the famous Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk to Natural Bridges State Beach, lazy pedalers can take a slow spin along picturesque ocean cliffs and watch surfers and sealife. Round trip is around seven miles.
  • Ohlone Bluff Trail – This trail, just north of town, offers miles of flat riding with access to several secluded beaches. Park in the Wilder Ranch parking lot and head towards the ocean on the fire road.

Cross Country

Wilder Ranch – This area is a favorite gym for many area cyclists who go there to pump up their legs and lungs. This state park encompasses 6000 acres and offers virtually every type of riding. For a classic introductory ride, park in the Wilder Ranch lot and take the Englesman fire road to Old Cabin, Old Cabin to the top of the Eucalyptus Trail. From there riders can opt to head back down into Wilder or Grey Whale Ranch.

  • Nisene Marks – This steep, redwood forest nearly became off limits to bikers recently. Fortunately, the fire road is still legal to ride. For a classic uphill, the 17-mile Aptos Creek Fire Road loop from the entrance in Aptos to the Sand Point Overlook and back shouldn’t be missed. Riders will pass the epicenter of the 1989 earthquake that leveled parts of the county.
  • Soquel Demonstration State Forest or ‘Demo’ – Miles of challenging singletrack and fire roads are legal and waiting to be ridden in this area above Nisene Marks. Open to the public, but administered by the California Department of Forestry, this area boasts no facilities. Park at the entrance on Highland Way.

Bike rentals – are available from Family Cycling Center on 41st Avenue: Cruisers, tandem cruisers and Santa Cruz mountain bikes. www.familycyclingcenter.com (831) 475-3883

Kelp bed exploring

Photo by Mark Woodhead

Kayaking

The protected Santa Cruz coastline sits inside of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. Underwater forests of giant kelp, pods of southern sea otters and other marine mammals, and miles of scenic coastline invite even the most novice paddlers to explore.

The easiest tours leave from either the Santa Cruz Municipal Pier or the harbor. Local companies offer a variety of guided natural history, wildlife viewing, kayak fishing and full-moon tours, weather permitting. Most companies also rent boats for self-guided tours.

Elkhorn Slough, situated along the Pacific Flyway bird migration route, is a ‘don’t miss’ location for paddlers. The Slough is the second largest coastal wetland remaining in California, and offers superlative bird and marine mammal viewing. (Parking costs $2.00 at the boat launch in Moss Landing.)

Call these companies for further details and to make reservations:

Hiking/Trail running

Big Basin, California’s first state park, features some of the state’s largest redwood trees. Over 80 miles of trails and a variety of distinct ecosystems wind through this century-old park. Hike to Berry Creek Falls from Waddell Creek (11 miles roundtrip). Trailhead is at the Waddell Creek turnout on Hwy 1. Or plan a day long hike-a-thon and do the Skyline to the Sea trail (12.5 miles one way). Trailhead is located across from park headquarters in Boulder Creek. Shuttle recommended. Contact park headquarters at (831) 338-8860 for more info.

For runners, Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park’s Fall Creek Trail is a nearly 7-mile loop through classic, creekside redwood stands with moderate elevation gains.

The park is about five miles out of Santa Cruz on Highway 9, near Felton. 831-438-2396

Photo of Micaela Eastman by Nikki Brooks

Surfing

The classic waves that make this area a breeding ground for phenomenal surfers are a finite resource. The best way to get in the water without hassle is to do it as unobtrusively as possible. A one or two-person private lesson with one of the following surf schools should provide a proper lesson in etiquette and safety:

Disc Golf

De Laveaga Municipal Park, known to most locals as “DayLa,” features a popular disc golf course. Head up there to play a round or just hike to the top for the view of Santa Cruz proper from Top of the World, otherwise known as Hole 27.

(831) 462-5293 www.delaveagadiscgolf.com

Sailing

Every December, sailors decorate their boats with lights for a maritime Christmas parade in the harbor (Saturday, Dec. 3, 5:30 p.m.) If you don’t know someone with a boat you can take a sightseeing cruise on the bay with one of these two companies:

Brews and Bottles

Only in Santa Cruz

Places to Stay

Spendy (but worth it):

Cheap:

Cheaper: Camping

  • Big Basin Redwoods State Park(831) 338-8860
  • New Brighton State Beach (831) 464-6330
  • Manresa State Beach (831) 761-1795

20
Oct/09
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LEGENDS

Fifty years ago, the world was a harsher, more primitive place—at least in terms of adventure sports. Think for a moment about a little route on El Capitan in Yosemite called The Nose. Its slick granite face was difficult for a team of climbers to ascend after weeks of dangerous toil, let alone all-free and in a day. Meanwhile, bicycles of the time didn’t boast suspension forks or disc brakes and surfers couldn’t stay in Northern California waters for longer than a half hour without turning blue. Skiing was still a ballet-like sport best done in stretchy woolens and leather boots, and no one even considered running a marathon, swimming 2.4 miles, and biking 112 miles consecutively while wearing a Speedo.

In the early 1990s, a young female climber who had recently recovered from a 75-foot fall managed to free-climb The Nose in a day. It was a feat that astounded and inspired the climbing world. Now there are numerous all-free routes on El Cap, but no one else has managed to free the Nose in a day.

Bicycles before the 1980s were not meant for riding in the dirt. They were often long on style but short on ease of use. But following in the footsteps of the Mt. Tam posse of riders like Gary Fisher and Joe Breeze, Keith Bontrager managed to help stage a revolution in the world of mountain biking with component and frame design. Let’s just say that this year’s Tour de France winner had a little help, at least in the bike department, from Bontrager.

Just as Bontrager helped to define mountain biking with his innovative designs, Jack O’Neill changed the lineup in the water. It is hard to imagine life before the wetsuit, but apparently it was tolerable-—for
about 30 minutes. Experimenting with all sorts of materials, O’Neill finally struck black gold when he started stitching together panels of neoprene, thus creating the wetsuit and fostering the surfer way of life.

Warren Miller, one of the original ski bums, brought his lifestyle to the big screen. During his 55 years as the reigning king of the ski flick, Miller, with his signature witticisms and enthusiasm, caught the evolution of extreme on tape. When he first started filming, skiers could catch just a few feet of air on their wooden sticks. Now they can out-ski avalanches.

And for those who find enlightenment within suffering, Mark Allen led the pack during six Ironman victories. Known for being the toughest one day event in the world, the Ironman exacts 140 miles of non-stop anguish from its participants. In 1995, he became the oldest victor at 37 years old, setting the stage for many “older” athletes to prevail in endurance sports for years to come.

What these athletes all have in common is that they have become living legends. In part due to their accomplishments, the world of outdoor sports has changed completely. In this issue, we discover what led them to their legendary status and why their accomplishments will never be forgotten.

—Christa Fraser

[Back to Top of Page]

FREE CLIMBER: Lynn Hill

It is probably an exaggeration to call Lynn Hill the greatest living climber, but just barely. Certainly Lynn changed the sport of rock climbing forever, and arguably left a larger impression on the sport than any climber, man or woman, since or before the decade that she dominated the sport. Lynn often made her climbing accomplishments look easy, but as she reveals in her autobiography Climbing Free, her path to greatness was a perilous one.

“Where were you the day Lynn fell?” May 9, 1989 is a day that all longtime climbers remember vividly—the day that Lynn forgot to tie her knot and fell 75 feet to the ground from a cliff in France. At the time, Lynn was just about ready to make a powerful statement—that she, not Catherine Destievelle or any other European woman—was the strongest female climber in the world. The first international sport climbing competition was just a few weeks away in Leeds, England, and Lynn, the first woman to ascend the mythic grade of 5.14a, was all set to take the crown.

Instead, Lynn leaned back at the edge of the cliff, and the untied knot slipped through her harness. Wind-milling her arms in a vain attempt to keep from falling backwards off the cliff, the horror of what was about to happen became apparent. In her book, Lynn describes the survival process that unfolded as she purposely aimed her fall towards a small tree at the base of the cliff. The blood-curdling scream that left her lungs as she fell froze every climber at the cliffs that day, and dozens of horror-stricken people caught sight of a human figure hurtling through the sky. Falling the distance of a seven-story building, Lynn describes the event in her book:

“It is not true that in a fall one sees one’s life flash through one’s eyes. There is not enough time for even a single formed thought. But survival instincts are wired on a faster pathway than any other mental process, and when I saw the approaching tree I knew instinctively that my best chance to live was to land in it. Speeding toward it, I tucked my body into a ball, blasted through its branches, and then my left buttock slammed into a lattice of tree roots and everything went black.”

Later, Lynn awoke in a French hospital, broken but alive. Looking in the mirror was difficult—her face was black and blue and completely swollen. She describes those first few days in the hospital:

“Disappointment overwhelmed me. I staggered away from the mirror and its ugly reflection. Limping back to bed, I lay down. How well things had been going until this blunder. I felt I had a good shot at winning the
competition in Leeds and I was climbing harder than any woman ever had. Now my elbow may never heal well enough to climb at that level again. My life as a competition climber could be over. I am not the type given to crying,
but my eyes grew wet as I realized what I had always known—that nothing in life is guaranteed.”

Lynn Hill did bounce back from her climbing accident, and she came through the experience tougher and with more resolve. She went on to dominate competition climbing in Europe and America for a decade, often competing against the strongest men in the world. The fact that she is just over five feet tall is truly remarkable in a sport that often favors height.

When Lynn decided to retire from competition climbing in the early nineties, she was already the most famous rock climber in the world. However, her climbing career was not over.

In 1993, Lynn returned to her roots in Yosemite to free climb the Nose route on El Capitan. Unlike many of the European climbers she had competed against for so many years, Lynn had served a traditional apprenticeship. She had learned to climb in the ‘70s and was skilled in bold, runout lead-climbing. In traditional climbing, the free climber must set his or her own running anchors during upward progress, requiring judgment and experience
that bolt-clipping sport climbers don’t need. Aided by her background, Lynn would make a statement in a type of climbing far removed from plastic holds and indoor sport climbing competitions. Traditional adventure climbing was a world with very few female voices. By attempting to free climb the Nose, Lynn would be taking on a challenge that many of the top men in the sport had dreamed about for years.

When Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore first climbed the Nose in 1958, success came after many months of effort, and vast stretches of aid climbing—essentially pounding in spikes to support rickety ladders that made the ascent possible. As revolutionary as it was at the time, Harding’s ascent was more of an engineering feat than anything else. What Lynn proposed to do was a gymnastic challenge that was almost shockingly ambitious: to use her fingers and toes to physically climb every inch of the route, using her ropes and gear as a safety net only. Anyone who has been to Yosemite and seen El Capitan has some understanding of Lynn’s ambitious project. Most tourists and climbers who see the Nose for the first time are dumbstruck. The Nose is so huge (over 3000 feet tall) it’s almost frightening to look at.

Lynn spent weeks rehearsing various sections of the Nose that had thwarted all previous free climbing aspirants. Finally she linked all the sections and was ready to return for a single free-climbing push from the ground.
When Lynn freed the Nose in less than 24 hours, her achievement stunned the climbing community. When the climbing press carried the story in early 1994 she was no longer just the best female climber, but possibly the world’s best climber, period. A decade later, no one else has completely freed the Nose in a day. ASJ recently spoke to Lynn about her accomplishments. When asked why she thought her free of the Nose in a day has never been repeated, she said:

“I can’t tell you exactly why. The most important thing is to have the vision and ability to link long stretches of highly tenuous climbing over 2000 feet off the ground. Tommy Caldwell is one name that
comes to mind in terms of someone who has the right background to pull it off. Some have said that I was able to free climb the Nose because of my small body size and small fingers, which gave me a unique advantage [the Nose has many thin cracks and pin scars], but I don’t buy that. The Nose will be freed in a day again, by the next person who comes along with the right desire, vision, and background.”

Lynn is not someone who likes to be put on a pedestal, and most likely will not like being called a ‘legend’ for the purposes of this article, but it is fair to say her climbing accomplishments are legendary. At the very least, Lynn Hill is an inspiration, and for this she is much admired.

—Matt
Niswonger

[Back to Top of Page]

Mind
over Suffering: Mark Allen

Growing up in Palo Alto in the ‘70s, there was little to suggest that Mark Allen would rise to become the most dominant athlete in the most demanding of sports. Of course, triathlons at the time were not on the radar screens of America’s youth, or just about anyone else for that matter.

“Athletically, I grew up as a competitive swimmer. But my results were outstandingly mediocre,” says Allen, now 46 and eight years into retirement. “I never qualified for anything big like Olympic trials
or national championships. So there was definitely a severe lack of foreshadowing that I would be able to do anything that one would consider better than middle of the pack in any other sport.”

So much for not standing out from the pack.
After years of disappointing collapses, Allen won the Hawaii Ironman six times, the toughest one-day sporting event in the world. His first victory came
in 1989 in an epic duel with six-time winner Dave Scott, and his last in 1995 at age 37, making him the oldest champion ever. Allen also excelled at short-course races, went undefeated in 10 trips to the Nice International Championships, and put together a winning streak of 20 races. He was named Triathlete of the Year six times and in 1997 Outside magazine pronounced him “The World’s Fittest Man.”

Before emerging from the pack, Allen went to college at UC San Diego, which he had chosen for its proximity to the waves, for he had been infected by the surfing bug while learning at the Hook in Santa Cruz. At UCSD, he lived right above Blacks Beach. He swam on the swim team. He worked as a lifeguard. Life was pretty ideal, if not particularly challenging.

In 1982, he tuned in to watch the Ironman and witnessed one of the most gripping scenes in sports history. After a 2.4 mile swim, 112-mile bike ride, and 26 miles of running, Julie Moss, a 22-year-old San Diego native, was in first place. A mere 400 yards the finish line, she fell and rose to her feet three times. Twenty feet from victory, she collapsed a final time and was passed. She crawled across the finish line to finish second, 29 seconds later.

For Allen, the moment was serendipitous in more ways than one. It inspired him to take up the sport, and seven years later, he and Moss would get married and have a son, Mats, now 10, together.

Unlike in the pool, Allen immediately distinguished himself as a triathlete. In his first race, he finished fourth behind the Great Scotts: Dave Scott, Scott Molina and Scott Tinley.

“When I started in triathlons right away things were different … As a swimmer, if someone got even a half a stroke lead on me my race was done. However, from my very first triathlon in 1982 I tried to see this sort of scenario from a different perspective. If someone did start to pull away from me, I just tried to relax and not worry about it, telling myself that something might change and that the person might come back to me if I just focused on racing as fast as I could … This turned out to be huge later in my racing in Kona where I always came from behind, especially in my final race in 1995 having to come back from a 13:30 deficit on the bike.”

Over the years, Allen’s reputation for mental toughness was often described as a “Zen-like focus.” More accurately, his mental strength was derived in part from the Shaman teachings of the Huichol Indians of central Mexico, a small tribe which has no history of war and accentuates celebrations of life. It was his connection with Shamanism that he credits with helping to kick off his wins in Hawaii.

“The ‘Zen-focus’ was something the media dreamed up to describe the way I tried to approach my races. Basically, I went to them to get a job done. I was not there to be anyone’s friend or to win
the most popular personality contest. I was aware of how much energy could leak out before an event by interacting too much with others. And I knew I didn’t have the genetics to rely on if my tank was not completely
full at the start of a very long day. So I tried to just stick to myself … to hold onto all the energy I had stored up prior to the race and then use it at the right moments in the event.”

“This all became easier to do once I started studying Huichol Shamanism with Brant Secunda. He helped me to be able to just approach everything with more of a calm steadiness, which is something the Huichols
value in life. He always emphasized that if we let ourselves get too up then we are also vulnerable to being really down. And I saw this play out over and over in races. Some athletes would be totally psyched up going into an
important event, but then at the first moment when things started going in the wrong direction their whole demeanor changed and they started to lose their positive focus.”

While Allen was nearly unbeatable at most races, before the ’89 Ironman he seemed to be eternally vexed by the ghosts of Kona, year after year falling victim to one thing or another, from a broken derailleur to internal bleeding. Six times he had finished in the top five, but when it came to winning, he was saturated with self doubt. And physically after six to eight hours of racing he seemed to fall apart. In both 1984 and 1987, Allen was leading on the run when he was passed in the lava fields by Dave Scott.

In early 1989, Allen tried to remedy this on a six-week training trip to New Zealand with several other top athletes. Without any distractions, “we put in some unbelievably monstrous training days and after six to eight hours I still felt strong. To my surprise, I could absorb it. It opened my eyes as to what was possible physically.”

Psychologically, though, Allen still felt shaky. “Somehow Kona finds where you’re weak,” he says. “There were plenty of things about it that intimidated me. In ’89, I knew I needed to overcome that.”

Allen shadowed Dave Scott throughout the race. “I swam right on Dave’s feet, we stayed together on the bike, and we ran together … Our splits were way under world-record pace.” Scott threw in some surges to try to break away. Allen, who was suffering from painful blisters that had formed and popped in his Nikes, was at first overcome by doubts. “Suddenly my mind went completely blank and all my negative thoughts left.” The image of Don Jose, a renowned 110-year-old Huichol shaman, whose face conveyed peace and power, lodged in his mind and he felt a surge of energy. At the last water station, Allen turned the tables on Scott and broke away for his first Ironman victory, winning by 58 seconds, blood seeping through his shoes.

“Before ‘89 had always gone to Hawaii wanting to win, thinking that would make my life complete … Now I realized it was better to go in feeling content. I was going about it backwards.”

Having long since conquered the demons of Kona, today Allen lives blocks from Pleasure Point, the spot where he learned to surf as a kid. He has his own online training website, MarkAllenOnline, in which he spills the knowledge from his 15 years at the top of the fitness pyramid. He also does occasional teaching clinics and TV commentary.

He is passionate about his work with Secunda and the Dance of the Deer Foundation Center for Shamanic Studies, based in Soquel. They developed a workshop, “Fit Body, Fit Soul,” and are finishing a book by the same title, aimed at athletes who have their bodies finely tuned but are missing something else and at spiritually oriented folks who know little about fitness and nutrition.

If triathlons hadn’t come about, Allen says he probably would have focused mostly on surfing. “It is a sport I do for pure exercising enjoyment. I don’t think I would have picked up running or cycling as a way to keep fit. But it is really hard to say now. In terms of a career, I probably would have ended up in some form of healing profession. Which form it would have taken I am not sure, but it definitely would have been something other than a Western approach to health and healing.”

—By Pete Gauvin

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The Great Stuntman: Warren Miller

Warren Miller was born in 1924 in Hollywood, California during the era of silent films. Among the great silent films of that year was one by the comedic actor Buster Keaton called Sherlock Jr. In it, a young man works at a theatre manning the projector. Daydreaming, he slips into the world of the reel that he is playing and soon his life is dictated by the story of the film. Keaton was a consummate stunt man and often choreographed and then performed most of the stunts in his own movies.

It seems fitting then that Warren blazed the trails to make some of the best and most beloved of ski films in which he has choreographed unbelievable stunts and mixed in a bit of his own life and humor. He started making his films in 1949, and for the last 55 years, they have traced the arc of both cinematography and snow sports and pioneered many filming techniques.

1924 was also the year that the first Winter Olympics were held. Fittingly, they were held in Chamonix, France, a location that he would visit to film many times during his career. It hardly seems possible for him to have been born in a better year.

Though he was born at a pivotal time in the world of film and winter sports, he hardly enjoyed an easy childhood. The depression arrived when he was still a kid, but fortunately, he was able to buy his first camera during that time and begin his lifetime pursuit documenting “his own quest of freedom,” as he describes it. Warren also pursued a number of other interests, like the military, surfing, drawing and self-publishing books of his cartoons. (His book Wine, Women, Warren and Skis is currently in its 15th edition.)

But the winters of 1946 and 1947 changed everything for him. It was also a very important time for skiing for two reasons. The first was that the ski lift began to see public use in Aspen, Colorado and in Europe. It was also the year that P-Tex,a dense abrasion resistant plastic, was developed. P-Tex would become one of the primary components for making modern, light and durable skis. 1946 was also the most profitable year ever at that time for Hollywood films. Coincidentally, it was the year that Warren and Ward Baker spent traveling to ski resorts throughout the west.

Arguably, Warren and Ward ushered in the lifestyle of the ski bum when they spent the next couple of years traveling to different ski resorts, teaching ski lessons and living out of their trailer in various parking lots.

In 1949, after negotiating the loan of a movie camera and a small filming budget, Warren made his first ski film, which was called Deep and Light, probably a reference to the way he best likes his snow. The movie was made for a few hundred dollars.

He had essentially hit a gold mine. The rising interest in skiing, which was no longer just for the wealthy, combined with the rising numbers of moviegoers created a niche that he was only too ready to fill. Originally, Warren himself attended his film screenings and delivered a running commentary to the audience. But by the end of the ‘50s, his films were too popular for him to attend every screening, so he began to record his signature comments and narration right onto the film. Even without being there in person, he still managed to create an air of intimacy in his films, like a grandfather or uncle telling you a great story.

The difference between Warren and a lot of grandfathers and uncles, though, is that he tells a much hipper tale. He recently turned 80 years old, but has stayed current in the world of snow sports. As a result, his films have appealed to generation after generation of skiers and snowboarders. In fact, the soundtracks of his films feature a lot of great popular and underground music. Each film has become a time capsule of the culture of skiing in that year.

In 1954, he filmed what may be the first extreme move caught on film–the legendary Stein Erickson doing a front flip. Since that time, he has filmed Glen Plake popcorning down mogul fields, Olympic champion Johnny Moseley skiing Wiegele’s Alaskan territory, as well as Bode Miller, Barret Christy and Terje Haakonsen, among many, many others. In essence, Warren has caught 55 years of the evolution of skiing and snowboarding on film. But jack-of-all trades that he is he has also filmed skydiving, BASE Jumping, and kayaking.

He may or may not be retiring from making his films in the next year or so. He sold the company to his oldest son, Kurt, in the late eighties and has since moved to San Juan Island, Washington. “Right now we’re
negotiating for the next film,” he explains.

Somehow, though, the thought of a film with Warren’s name on it, but without his voice just doesn’t seem right. It would be akin to watching a silent Keaton film where he suddenly starts speaking to the audience, or where he is completely absent. What made a Keaton film was Keaton himself.

This is another important year for Warren. In the midst of completing a 22,000 square foot skateboarding park, he just celebrated his 80th birthday with a surprise party hosted by his family and friends. On his web page,
www.warrenmiller.net, he wrote this about the party: “I still find it hard to believe that the whole thing was to celebrate my 80th birthday. The joke is on everyone else because it was really just the 66th anniversary of my 14th birthday and I’m really only a 14-year-old kid trapped in a senior citizen’s body.”

—Christa Fraser

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Golbal Warmer: Jack O ’Neill

Jack O’Neill never figured out what hit him in the eye back in 1971 while surfing out front of his Pleasure Point home. Whatever it was caused him to go blind in his left eye. Over the years, the eye patch he donned to cover it up has become part of his iconic pirate-like image. He completes
the part with a full beard, tussled hair and a mischievous twinkle in his right eye. The eye patch, however inadvertent at first, now seems like such a natural fit, for in many ways his life path has been that of a wayfarer
of the sea.

Even with losing his eyesight, O’Neill never lost his vision. He has seen many waves and is pleased with the life he’s created directly and indirectly from their energy. “The ocean belongs to all of us. I’ve gotten so much from the ocean,” he smiles, his features softening.

Indeed he has, but he’s never taken this good fortune for granted.

From his creation of the first wetsuit back in 1952 in order to surf the chilly Northern California waters to his development of a company that would become one of the largest and most recognized brands in the industry, O’Neill has long been a living legend in surf circles and in local ocean lore.

He desires to instill in future generations the respect and wonder for the ocean he has. His Sea Odyssey program, started in 1997, offers young students free ocean education tours. The Sea Odyssey catamaran sails out of Santa Cruz harbor and teaches young generations about the ocean and sea life of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

“The Sea Odyssey is a way of putting things back. Once kids learn about the sea they never forget and want to give back to the ocean,” says O’Neill, now 81.

The view of the ocean from O’Neill’s cliff-side home in Santa Cruz is so close it’s like living on a boat. On big swell days, O’Neill must batten the hatches (literally, since downstairs windows are actually portholes) to prevent waves from crashing onto his bed. Being a Pisces, it’s easy to see that Jack O’Neill is a man who can’t live far from the sea and its salty air.

Ironically, O’Neill was born well inland, in Denver in 1923. Jack made his way to the coast early in life and spent his youth in Southern California. There he began his passion for the ocean by body surfing in the waves. Not content with exploring just the sea, Jack decided to take to the skies, as well. He enlisted in the Navy for World War II, where he learned to fly Waco 220-hp biplanes. After the war, he bought a Stearman biplane
and went into business for himself doing aerial advertising. But business was slow, so Jack decided to return to the sea and earn his living by commercial fishing off the San Francisco coast. That venture led to other jobs as varied as selling skylights and fire extinguishers.

San Francisco never has been known for its welcoming beaches. The dense coastal fog alone can chill to the bone, not to mention the fact that the average water temperature year round is a meager 52 degrees. Ocean
Beach, in particular, is known for its life-threatening currents, caused in part by the enormous tidal drain of San Francisco Bay. These notorious currents were deemed dangerous enough that there was a law against swimming in effect during the 1950s when O’Neill lived there. Step into the water and a horse-mounted policeman would come down to order you out.

Luckily, one cop decided to allow swimming and surfing at a single spot along the beach, Kelly’s Cove at the north end. That’s where Jack would return time and again to the purity of the ocean amidst the industry of a city. “If I got all screwed up being in downtown San Francisco working, I’d get into the water at the beach, catch that one wave and everything would be all right again.”

Even the frigid water wouldn’t keep O’Neill from his craving to feel the waves. “Without a wetsuit, you could only last about an hour on the best of days,” he recalls. “Still, your teeth would start to rattle after about 20 minutes.”

Tired of cutting short his wave time because of the cold, Jack started experimenting with what would become the first true wetsuit. His determination and ingenuity would change the face of surfing forever.

His initial attempts to stay warm included stuffing his trunks with unicellular foam. “I thought that if I put the foam between me and the water, I might be able to trap body heat,” he says. This modestly succeeded and so he went to the next step and cut the foam in pieces to form a surf vest, much to the amusement of his surfing buddies. “They always laughed,” O’Neill chuckles. “They laughed at every stage of the development of the wetsuit. They laughed every time.”

It was around this time in 1952 that Jack opened up the “Surf Shop” in a garage across the Great Highway from his favorite bodysurfing break. “I got a federal registration on the name ‘Surf Shop,’” he recalls. “I think we were the first to use it. Only two surf shops existed at that time, Velzy and Hobie both down south. We sold wetsuits, paraffin wax, and surf boards.”

As the surf industry grew, he refined his wetsuits with different styles and materials. He developed designs for the shorty, long john, and beaver-tail wetsuits.

In 1959, he moved to Santa Cruz and opened O’Neill’s Surf Shop. His timing could not have been more perfect. The movie Gidget had just hit theaters and it seemed like everyone wanted to surf. O’Neill’s business boomed and hasn’t slowed down yet. By
1980, O’Neill’s Surf Shop had become the leader in wetsuit manufacturing, dominating the American, Japanese, Australian, and European markets.

Today, O’Neill is the best-selling wetsuit brand in the world, but Jack still views it as a “family business.” All of his six children have worked with the company, even scrubbing toilets in the early days. His son Pat became O’Neill’s CEO in 1985. Though Pat is the head of O’Neill today, he gives credit where credit is due. “Jack O’Neill made O’Neill what it is today.”

Jack himself is still somewhat baffled by the enormity of his success.

“Nobody is surprised more than me. I thought that it would be a good time to open a shop, get a load of balsa wood and shape some boards. But the doors kept opening. That really surprised me.”

Looking out his back window, O’Neill could see about 20 surfers in the water, every one of them wearing a wetsuit. The company motto, “It’s always summer on the inside,” is an apt summation of
his enormous gift to millions of fellow ocean lovers.

—Krista Hammond

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Singletrack Mind: Keith Bontrager

The rough and narrow bike trail ahead quickly swoops right. Instantly you feather the front brake, set your pedals, and drop your weight into a railing turn. Pedaling through the turn exit your brain flashes to focus on the next banking turn – a slightly off camber and uphill left. Click. Clack.
You drop a gear in a single pedal stroke. Slamming on the gas, you arc into the corner and accelerate so fast you launch the rise and boost six feet down the trail…

Fast, twisting singletrack mountain biking—if you love it, you probably owe Keith Bontrager a beer. For the last 24 years Keith has been putting his heart and soul into designing mountain bikes for this very pursuit. From his first custom steel frames to his latest carbon fiber wheel sets, Keith has helped pioneer cycling innovations that directly translated into major riding improvements. The result – nearly every mountain bike design on the market is indebted to his work and cyclists like Lance Armstrong look to him for wheels and components. Still riding and ranting, Keith Bontrager is a living legend of cycling.

Keith first learned how to ride a bicycle when he was about eleven years old growing up in Santa Clara. Not allowed to have a bicycle of his own until he was in high school, the first bike he pieced together was an old Schwinn Stingray. As he settled into high school, he became sharply focused on two-wheeled machines, but not human-powered ones. Instead, Keith was fascinated with the throttling power of motorcycles. For the next twelve years, he rode, raced, and worked on motorcycles. Drawing on technique learned in industrial arts class and work as an apprentice machinist at Ames Research Laboratories, he became a skilled motorcycle mechanic. From there, he began to experiment with metal fabrication as he modified various engines and suspension systems.

Beat up from several hard years of motocross riding and racing, Keith turned his focus back to bicycling around 1978. By 1980 he had built his first custom bike frame, which was a road frame for himself. Soon he was building lots of frames. In 1981, he decided to start an official business, Bontrager Cycles, so that he could get frame materials directly from the suppliers. Bontrager Cycles specialty was making custom fit steel frames for mountain, road and track, as well as cycling components like rims, handle bars, and forks.

Over the next 15 years, Keith and his cohorts at Bontrager Cycles helped revolutionize the art of producing hand crafted bike frames. The champion of meticulous standards of quality, Keith focused his company’s research on improving frame or component strength, while reducing weight, and improving precision. Some of his most notable innovations include one of the first lightweight mountain bike specific rims, the composite fork, and a still popular weld reinforcement piece called a gusset. Along the way, Bontrager’s testing on the metallurgical effects of welding and brazing of steel frames and the durability of components such as handlebars and stems became reference points for bike manufacturers around the world.

In 1996, Bontrager Cycles went through a reorganization that began transitioning the business toward where it stands today. Faced with slumping sales, Keith decided to merge with colossal bike maker Trek Bicycles. Operations were moved from Santa Cruz to Waterloo, Wisconsin. But the mass-produced, Trek-made, Bontrager-designed bikes never caught on. Yet Keith took this seeming failure in stride and simply focused instead on what made him stand out in the cycling world–his ability to design and test components that lead to flawless performance. That talent has inspired other bike makers to strive for those same standards.

Eight years after the merger, Keith is now an ”Ambassador and Engineer-At-Large“ for Bontrager Wheelworks and Components. Despite the bulky title, Keith’s main responsibilities are now found in the saddle. “I work on product development in tires and rims for the most part. The other work I do is ongoing testing and long term testing on the rest of the bike…In general it’s pretty easy to find people
who are interested in working on the glam racing stuff so I spend a lot of training time riding on consumer-level equipment to see how it is working and to make improvements where possible.”

Keith is also designing components for the demigods of cycling. Last winter he worked in Santa Cruz perfecting a new design for a carbon fiber rim and special all weather brake pad that Lance Armstrong himself rode to victory in the Tour de France. Although Lance’s ultra light bikes garnered notable attention this year, Keith readily admits that the most revolutionary part of those winning steeds was still the motor. “[Lance] didn’t even use all the trick stuff we had because he was in such a strong position in the race all along.”

Dedicated to cycling for both work and pleasure, Keith has also parlayed his work schedule into top-notch performance results. He is a consummate racer and enters events from February to December. An animal in the Masters division, Keith finishes strong in ultra endurance mountain bike races such as 24–hour solo events and marathons. A 24–hour race in Moab this month will mark the 50th 24–hour bike event he has entered.

Complimenting his off road pedigree, Keith also finds time to race a handful of cyclocross events.

Having focused and fretted over every conceivable bicycle component, Keith’s experience commands uncommon respect in the cycling industry. Generally outspoken, Keith writes magazine articles and maintains a log of mini essays he calls ‘Rants’ on the Bontrager website. Tackling sometimes sticky topics like frame stiffness, spinning, and bike fit, Keith’s Rants are humorous and well spoken rambles, juicy with insider information and sound engineering principles.

No bicycle enthusiast can deny his or her debt to Keith Bontrager’s influence. His dedication to quality and his early and steadfast attention to innovation laid the foundation upon which many cutting-edge cycling technologies are still constructed. If your dream bike is light, strong, and built with flawless precision, you share the performance priorities to which Keith has continually dedicated his life. Watch out for this cycling legend at any raucous singletrack near you or check out his ‘Rants’ and world–class components at www.Bontrager.com.

—Seth Lightcap

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May/08
0

Behind the Swell of Stand-Up Paddling

Lance Hookano surfing his SUP.

Photo by Sander Nauenberg.

Imported from Hawaii, hybrid sport growing from Santa Cruz to Lake Tahoe

By Ramona d’Viola

In the blush of first light, on the island of Moloka’i, a conch shell bellows from the shores of Kaluako’i Beach. The kahuna has blessed the gathering of paddleboarders and their crews, bidding them good luck and a safe passage. The sound of his shell horn breathes life into the still morning. On cue, dozens of men, and a handful of women, charge into the surf for the annual Moloka’i to Oah’u Paddleboard Race. Their goal: To reach the southeast shore of Oah’u in as little time as possible.

The line-up features an impressive cast of international paddleboarders: the formidable Australians, the competitive Californians, and a smattering of super-fit European and Japanese watermen. Punctuating the string of prone paddlers are several hulking Hawai’ians — standing upright with paddles in hand — powering away toward the choppy channel, looking very much like the glyphs of their ancestors.

For the Honolulu beach boys who taught surfing at Waikiki’s waterfront, grabbing a paddle from a nearby outrigger made for easy trips to and from shore, especially with a sunburned tourist in tow. Now the accidental practice of stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), once rooted in convenience, has been improved upon by innovation, perfected in competition, and in the last few years blossomed into a bona-fide sport of its own.

Gaining Exposure

Witness the likes of über-surfer Laird Hamilton slaloming mountainous waves, carving perfect arcs with paddle in hand. And rock-star Sting, struggling along in calm Caribbean seas, proving it ain’t that easy. A stand-up paddleboard recently showed up in People magazine, of all places, on the shoulders of big-screen hunk Matthew McConaughey (BTW: I only look at the pictures – I don’t actually read the magazine).

Well, the media exposure was another spoonful of confirmation that this sport, once thought of as a fringe pursuit practiced mostly by aging surfers with troublesome backs, had crossed the foam line and was now riding a swell of pop-culture legitimacy – a development which more than likely would curl the toes of a few veterans, although it’s unlikely they would even notice.

Indeed, “stand-up” has become the latest surf-inspired offshoot to grab a following, and it appears poised to stay, as the reasons for its recent growth spurt go well beyond bare-chested celebrities. The practical, physical and sporting advantages of stand-up paddleboarding are numerous and compelling.

Broad Appeal

Dan Gavere was an early SUP adopter. A former pro whitewater kayaker, Gavere is a sales rep for Werner Paddles, a leading kayak and canoe paddle manufacturer that recently brought its expertise to the SUP market. The Hood River, Oregon-based road warrior credits the sports’ popularity to its increased visibility — on the water and in the press.

“With the continued cross-pollination between paddle sports and surfing, there’s more opportunities for people to access the ocean in a variety of mediums, whether there’s waves or not,” he says. “Stand-up paddling is another niche for the ever-evolving water sports market.”

As sales rep for the Southwest U.S. and Hawaii, Gavere is a frequent visitor to oceans sports epicenters like Santa Cruz, where he has seen a jump in his SUP sales at outlets like Kayak Connection, which sells the boards and offers rentals and classes.

Not everyone coming to stand-up paddleboarding is a surfer, nor do they want to be. According to Gavere, stand-up paddle surfing takes many of the negative aspects of traditional surfing out of the equation.

“You’re standing upright, you can see the waves from further out, you have the extra power a paddle provides, and you don’t have to jump to your feet … That prone to upright snap gets harder as you get older,” laughs Gavere.

There is great interest among a broad range of outdoor enthusiasts, says Kayak Connection owner Margeret Collins, including surfers, wind surfers, kayakers, and others that want to stay fit and in the outdoors.

“It is a great workout that keeps us outside and out of the gym,” says Collins, who enjoys getting out on the water in the morning. “It’s very meditative and very close to nature.”

Surf-bred, Not Surf Dependent

Saltwater isn’t the only province for SUPs. There are growing numbers on lakes and rivers, too. Laird Hamilton even paddled one down the Grand Canyon. On Lake Tahoe, SUPs are becoming a common sight and are sold in shops such as Tahoe Paddle & Oar in Kings Beach. There’s even a race on the lake each summer; the second-annual Ta-Hoe Nalu Stand-up Paddle Classic, a 7.4-mile race, takes place on Aug. 16 this year, www.ta-hoenalu.com.

“A great thing about the sport is that you don’t need the ocean,” says Duke Brouwer, marketing director for Surftech, the Santa Cruz-based board manufacturer. “Wherever there’s a body of water there’s an opportunity to stand on your board and go for a paddle. I’ve seen guys fishing off their SUPs on rivers … and recently heard of some guys planning a four-day stand-up paddle tour of Lake Powell with packs and sleeping bags.”

That’s why shops like Aquan Sports in San Carlos and California Canoe & Kayak in Oakland are finding SUPs to be a great new market – because they cross over from the surf to flatwater paddling on the bay and local lakes. Now surfers and paddlers in the Bay Area and elsewhere who can’t make it to the coast that often can get a great surf-style workout closer to home.

For kayak paddlers, stand-up paddling provides a fresh, heightened perspective when out on the water.

In San Diego, SUPs have become a popular cross-training tool for triathletes in its protected bays and along the coast. It makes for a phenomenal low-impact workout, Brouwer says. “It works not only your core muscles but engages all of your major muscle groups (to paddle and balance on the board).”

Another factor behind SUP’s surging popularity, Brouwer notes, is that the sport is very easy to learn – at least on flat water. “The boards are very stable and you can have the paddle wired after about a half an hour on the water.”

In the Sacramento area, SUP classes are offered through the summer at the Sacramento State Aquatic Center on Lake Natoma (916-278-2842; www.sacstateaquaticcenter.com). The introductory classes ($30 for the public) are three hours long; all equipment is provided. Check the website for dates and times.

Expert Swell Catchers

In surf and on the open ocean, SUPs can demand a considerably larger skill set than on flatwater. With their length and speed, stand-up paddleboards are ideal for catching ocean swells that don’t crest. Called “runners,” learning to ride these moving mounds of water is like hitching rides on a conveyor belt of hills.

The runners in the channel between Moloka’i and Oahu are legendary. The refraction waves generated by water slamming into land mass gives an experienced stand-up paddler a huge, albeit potentially dangerous, advantage. Several years ago, I watched Buzzy Kerbox rocketing along Oahu’s China Wall on his stand-up board, paddling into giant waves, and surfing them all the way into the bay. It was the first time I’d seen a stand-up paddler, and I was intrigued — if not awe struck.

“With the extra paddle power, you can get, and stay, in the pocket,” says Gavere. “Your paddle becomes a tiller, or gets hoisted overhead for surfing the hell out of a seemingly endless wave.”

SUP Full Disclosure

There can be some downsides to the sport, admits Gavere. “The extra gear, the cost of equipment, and unfortunately, localism. Not all surfers have embraced us.”

Provincial knuckleheads aside, enthusiasts are growing in number as paddleboarding, kayaking, and outrigger clubs see their ranks embracing a new sport. With categories showing up with increasing regularity at paddling competitions of all ilks, stand-up paddling might be the missing link among all camps.

“It’s one of the hardest workouts I’ve ever had,” says surfer, prone and stand-up, Tom Duryea. “It requires equal parts balance, power, agility, and endurance. But once you’re moving, it’s fast, really fast.”

Duryea, a familiar name in the winner’s circle at traditional belly-on-the-board paddleboarding competitions, has recently applied his impressive fitness to the stand-up variety of the sport. “I like to try any kind of watercraft, and stand-up paddling requires a whole new set of skills,” says Duryea, two-time winner of the Santa Cruz Paddleboard Union’s annual Jay Moriarity Memorial Paddleboard Race, and three-time Catalina Classic champion.

“You’re much more exposed to the wind and wake when you’re stand-up paddling, so balance is crucial. But, it allows for training with a more social aspect, in all types of conditions,” adds Duryea. “From flat and calm in the bay, to big and bumpy in ocean.”

Although stand-up paddleboards are versatile watercraft, if you’re interested in trying one, common sense and courtesy should hold sway – e.g. don’t paddle out into a crowded break, and don’t paddle into conditions beyond your ability. Remember, you’ve got a paddle and a whole lot more board to handle.

Aside from a few agro surfers, Gavere rates Santa Cruz as one of his favorite places to put in. “I caught a wave at Indicators and connected the dots all the way into Cowell’s,” says the lifelong waterman. “Santa Cruz is the perfect place for stand-up, whether you want to surf or just explore.”

One thing’s for sure: The rebirth of this ancient sport and its adoption in places so far in distance and climate from the islands would impress any kahuna.

1
Mar/07
1

Dave Johnston carving in the finals at the Portugal

Profile: Big Wave Dave

Photo: Foto-Reportagem

World Cup.
21st Annual
Santa Cruz Kayak Surf Festival
March 16-18, Steamer Lane

World Champ Looks to Add to His Portugal Victory on Home Surf

Name: Dave Johnston

Age: 44

Home surf: Santa Cruz

Occupation: Kayak instructor, outfitter and Sherpa

Career Highlights:

  • 2006 World Cup Champion, Portugal
  • 1999 World Champion, Brazil
  • 2006 US National Champion, Cape Hatteras
  • 2002 US National Champion, Outer Banks
  • 8-time US Team member
  • Winner of the Grand Prize in 2005 Best Wave Video Contest

Favorite moves: Cartwheel in the tube (aka “karate chop”), a roundhouse 360 off the lip.

Most memorable ride: One of my most memorable rides was at Davenport Landing on a very big day. I managed to catch a wave from way outside at the north point, surf it across the channel in front of the beach and link it with a wave coming the other direction from the south reef. That was one hell of a ride!

Biggest wave ridden: I have ridden several waves in the 15-20 foot range at Davenport and Middle Peak at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz. But when I’m on the wave I don’t have time to think about how big they are, only about how to pull it off without any problems.

Scariest moment: Riding storm surf at the Lane, a big section pitched over onto me and just obliterated me, removing the paddle from my grasp. After hand-rolling upright, another huge wall of water and then another drove me closer and closer to the cliffs. While sitting in my kayak about 20 feet from a death trap of car-size boulders with person-size gaps between them, I realized that the next big set wave was about to deliver me into an ugly reality.

Rather than bail on my boat and swim the half mile to the beach, I started backpaddling furiously with my hands. The wave swept me up and perched me on top of the rip-rap pile where I quickly exited without injury. This was probably the luckiest I’ve ever been. Not as brutal as swimming in class V though.

Future of kayak surfing: High performance carbon-kevlar surf-specific boats are incredibly fun surfing machines. The more whitewater boaters try them the more they’ll be heading out to surf in the ocean. That’s great as long as they practice good surfing etiquette toward other surfers already there. Or better yet, surf away from crowds in places that you have to paddle a little ways to get to. Find the perfect wave and ride it all by yourself.

Who else to watch in Santa Cruz: Rusty Sage rips; he’s last year’s champ. Also Jono Stevens, Demany Smith, Jeff Burlingham, Ken King, Dick Wold, Sean Morely, and Vince Shay are all ones to watch.

Secret weapons: Having local knowledge and my new boat the Murkey Waters Twist with the quad-strap system.

Favorite surf spot outside CA: Easkey, Northern Ireland

For more information on the Santa Cruz Kayak Surf Festival, visit www.asudoit.com.

The competition starts Friday, March 16, at 7 a.m.