Climbing

Foam Rolling for Athlete Recovery

Foam Rolling for Athlete Recovery

Learn why you need foam rolling in your life By Dara Richman If you ride a bike, run, or participate in most sports, foam rolling should become part of your workout routine. Having worked as a physical therapist specializing in sports medicine, I have been using the foam roll in my clinic for many years now. The foam roll is your friend, your savior, the tool your quads will soon develop a love/ hate relationship with. While I am pleased to see more and more people rolling out in the gym, I am left to wonder if most people really know how to get the most from it, and how to dose it appropriately for their needs? I decided to come up with my foam roll “cheat sheet” for my runners, cyclists, climbers, and all around weekend warriors to solve that problem. WHAT: In a nutshell, by foam rolling...
Athlete Profile: Chantel Astorga

Athlete Profile: Chantel Astorga

The limits of human endurance By Chris Van Leuven Chantel Astorga at 18,200’ on Denali’s (20,310’) Cassin Ridge after completing the Denali Diamond (Jewell Lund). Two-thousand-five-hundred feet up El Capitan,  a lone figure moves slowly up the wall, her headlamp flashing up and down as she looks for the next hand and foothold. It’s 2 a.m. on October 24, 2014. As carabiners and assorted hardware clank against the cliff, she stumbles onto a ledge where two people are sleeping. She’s been out of water for eight hours, and in front of her are several two-liter bottles clipped to the anchor near the team. She knows she could rouse them and ask, politely, for something to drink that would keep her going. But that’s not Chantel’s style. She pulls her gear carefully around them, takes a final look at the water, and climbs on. “At this point I was really...
Being Vegan

Being Vegan

Athletic perspectives on a plant-based diet By Julie Kanagy Hyland Fisher on the Downieville Classic course (Contributed). While the Paleo diet is all the rage for athletes, we rarely hear the perspectives of vegan athletes. In fact, there’s often confusion about exactly what it means to be vegan, so let’s clear that up first. Eating vegan means adhering to a diet that consists 100% of plant foods. This means no eggs, no dairy, and of course no flesh of any animal. Take a look around and you will find many athletes who not only survive, but thrive without consuming animal products. One such athlete is Rich Roll who chronicled his story of personal struggle, self-understanding, and redemption in his book Finding Ultra. As an amateur self-supported athlete, Roll came out of nowhere to place 11th in the 2008 Ultraman World Championships, and came back to place sixth in...
Legends of Yosemite

Legends of Yosemite

Tom Frost remembers the Golden Age Words by Chris Van Leuven Photos by Tom Frost / Aurora Photos October 30, 1964, after ten days of climbing, Tom Frost reaches the top of the North America Wall to complete the route’s first ascent (Royal Robbins). Yosemite Valley, September 1960. Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost stand on a triangle-shaped ledge a few hundred feet up The Nose on El Capitan, setting their sights on making the second ascent of the route. To get there, they’ve scrambled up broken rock and ledges to the start of the route’s first pitch. Above them gleams 2,800 feet of glacier-polished, orange granite, sliced with black, dark gray and white streaks. Toward the top of the cliff’s highest point, a pink band of light touches the wall. An hour earlier, the team loaded up by the side of the road with hundreds...
Save Red Rock Fights to Keep Red Rock Rural

Save Red Rock Fights to Keep Red Rock Rural

Grassroots conservation organization urges supporters to attend critical hearing affecting Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Photo: Tom Moulin Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (RRCNCA) – a popular Las Vegas-area destination for outdoor enthusiasts across the globe – is under threat of a massive housing development project that includes 5,000 homes. Clark County Commissioners are considering a request to rezone land that’s currently deemed rural, which would result in the destruction of Red Rock’s landscape, bringing pollution and traffic to the area and enraging the two million visitors who use the RRCNCA each year as a destination for climbing, hiking, biking and camping. The proposed development is on land that borders RRCNCA. Clark County Commissioners are holding a public hearing on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 at 9am. Save Red Rock is urging the public to attend to voice their opposition to the proposed rezoning. The hearing is located...
Contest: Who Am I?

Contest: Who Am I?

Who Am I? Answer this correctly for your chance to win ENO camping lights! • In 1972, I authored the now famous essay, “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” • “The father of clean climbing.”-Climbing Magazine- referred to my 1973 hammerless ascent of Half Dome with Galen Rowell and Dennis Hennek. This visionary ascent was featured on the cover of National Geographic and is widely credited for ushering in the modern standard for clean climbing. • My first ascent list includes Dark Star on Temple Crag, the longest alpine rock climb in the Sierra, V-Notch Couloir on Polemonium Peak, Ice Nine on Mt. Mendel, and the 2nd ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal, to name a few. • I led the first continuous ski traverse of the 250-mile John Muir Trail in 1970. • I hold the current speed record for skiing the Sierra High Route: 50 miles and over...
Stone Nudes

Stone Nudes

The story of Dean Fidelman’s evocative imagery By Chris Van Leuven “I look at my work as music. You like it or you don’t. It’s just my music that I make with my friends,” Dean “Bullwinkle” Fidelman tells Adventure Sports Journal from his modest home just west of Yosemite’s park gates. Today, 61-year-old Fidelman makes his art simply, passionately and without compromise — just like he did as a teenager in Southern California. In addition to making images of climbers sans clothing on rocks throughout the world, he also edits and collects historic climbing photos for coffee table books with his longtime friend John Long. These include: The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies (2009); Stone Nudes: Art in Motion (2010), The Valley Climbers: Yosemite’s Vertical Revolution (2012); and Yosemite in the 50s: The Iron Age (2015). To date he’s published 18 Stone Nude calendars. In 2010 The Stonemasters:...
Climbing in a Winter Wonderland

Climbing in a Winter Wonderland

Rocky fun on the Eastside Words by Leonie Sherman • Photos by Bruce Willey Getting happy in the Happies, Caroline Schaumann rises above the rim. For California climbers the intersection of the Owens Valley, the Great Basin and the Mojave desert form a dramatic paradise of stone. whether you want to boulder, clip bolts or belay from your bumper, you can scratch that itch on the quartz monzonite and volcanic tuff between the friendly towns of Bishop and Lone Pine. The Alabama Hills, Owens River Gorge and Happy and Sad Boulders showcase the diversity and quality of climbing available during the coldest darkest months in the rain shadow of the fairest range. Marty Lewis and Peter Croft have penned several Eastern Sierra climbing guides, which provide detailed and hilarious beta. What follows is only intended to whet your appetite and stoke your enthusiasm to drop whatever you’re doing and...
Save Red Rock

Save Red Rock

Red Rock Canyon under threat of development Photo: Tom Moulin Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (RRCNCA) – a popular Las Vegas-area destination for outdoor enthusiasts across the globe – is under threat of a massive housing development project that includes 5,000 homes. Clark County Commissioners are considering a request to rezone land that’s currently deemed rural, which would result in the destruction of Red Rock’s landscape, bringing pollution and traffic to the area and enraging the two million visitors who use the RRCNCA each year as a destination for climbing, hiking, biking and camping. The proposed development is on land that borders RRCNCA. Save Red Rock (SRR) is a grass roots organization committed to protecting the rural, recreational, and scenic nature of Red Rock Canyon. The organization has a long history of success in safeguarding the area. The group is currently rallying the support of outdoor enthusiasts and...
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