Jan/081
Kickin’ Axe in California
Ice Climbing in Lee Vining Canyon and June Lake Loop
Story and photo by SP Parker
Nearly 40 winters ago, Yvon Chouinard and Doug Robinson scaled the Main Wall ice route in Lee Vining Canyon, off Highway 120 east of Tioga Pass. A near vertical frozen waterfall, the climb was likely a good opportunity to test some new ice climbing tools Chouinard was developing at the time, including an ice axe with a shortened shaft and a curved pick angle. His innovations helped push the sport past its roots as a subset of mountaineering to become a worthwhile winter pursuit in its own right. Since then, the sport has surged in popularity.
Unfortunately for ice climbers, high-quality accessible ice is in limited supply in California. The most consistent ice occurs in the Eastern Sierra canyons of Lee Vining and June Lake—a reasonably short road trip, depending on conditions. Seepage from Eastside spring and creek flows (and, as local legend has it, a little leak or two from Southern California Edison’s nearby power plant) congeals as the temperatures drop, forming intricate pillars and columns of ice. Climbers can choose between easier routes or sheer, overhanging multi-pitch and mixed-climbing routes to test their crampon skills and ice-axe picking techniques—all in a 40-mile radius of winter fun.
Lee Vining
The eponymous Lee Vining Canyon, situated just southwest of the town of Lee Vining on Highway 395, stays cool in the shadows of Mt. Dana. The 2,000-foot high canyon walls are mostly shaded from the sun, almost guaranteeing consistent winter ice. The canyon has several main climbing areas:
The Right and Central (or “Chouinard”) areas feature top-rope bolt anchors (be careful getting to these since they are right at the edge of the cliff) and offer good test routes for novice ice climbers.
The Main Fall area offers more than a dozen multi-pitch routes to choose from. Routes up the face and to either side are mostly M3 to 8 mixed grade and WI 4 and 5 lead climbs (see sidebar, “Ice Climbing Ratings”). Well-known routes include the mixed lines of “Fischer King” and the intermediate route of “Spiral Staircase.”
The Bard-Harrington Wall demands longer pitches but offers some great mixed climbing lines. But take note that the Main Fall and Bard-Harrington areas are the domain of lead climbers. Be sure of your abilities before committing to these longer routes.
Lee Vining Canyon is located some 100 miles south of Reno. Highway 120 is closed in winter so if coming from the Bay Area it is necessary to loop around to Highway 395 via Tahoe. Road access is dependent upon the county plowing so if there is a big storm, the canyon may only be accessible by skis or snowshoes.
Lee Vining is small! For accommodations try Murphey’s Motel—they offer an ice climber discount. Nicely’s restaurant, the only diner in town, is the sure spot to meet up with other ice climbers and fill your mandatory thermos of coffee or hot chocolate.
June Lake Loop
At June Lake, good ice is just a short but steep amble from the side of the June Lakes Loop Road, just south on 395 from Lee Vining.
The formations at June Lake tend to have less overhang and are therefore friendlier to beginners than Lee Vining Canyon’s routes. However, it is necessary to lead up to the top. Also, because the routes are more exposed to sunlight, the ice here can be shorter-lived and a lot more variable with “chandeliers” and “cauliflowers” of soft ice. So-called easier routes can quickly become tricky. “Horsetail Falls” and “Tatums” are the main climbing areas.
June Lake is 10 miles south of the town of Lee Vining. For lodging, try the Whispering Pines Motel here. For luxury treatment after a day spent picking and kicking, the Double Eagle Resort offers spas and massages. They also offer a tasty breakfast with a fireside view of the climbing area.
Due to the shortage of predictable, accessible ice in California, both of these locales are popular. If you can, avoid weekends and come midweek instead. And when the approach means waiting in line for your turn, avoid spending time at the base of climbs when there are others climbing above, for obvious reasons. For ice updates, visit Sierra Mountain Guides’ website at www.sierramtnguides.com.
If winter camping is your thing, check out Big Bend Campground in Inyo National Forest. For camping info, visit www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/campgrounds. For current road conditions in the area, visit http://www.monolake.org/live.
Gear
Here are a few tips to ready your rack for winter climbs:
You can get by with general-purpose mountaineering equipment, but dedicated waterfall climbing tools will make life a lot easier and more enjoyable.
For pure ice climbing, a bent shaft tool is the norm. Also, going leashless is becoming more poplar, just watch out for dropping tools—yours and those belonging to climbers above you.
Keep your ice tools sharp and touch them up with a file rather than a bench grinder which can overheat the points. (With all the sharp pointy equipment required for ice climbing, there are numerous ways to put a hole in yourself or someone else. Pay attention to your points!)
Keep your helmet on when you’re on or near the ice.
Bring several pairs of gloves so that as one pair gets wet you can pull on another.
Originally from New Zealand, SP Parker has lived in the Eastern Sierra for 25 years. Certified in rock, alpine and ski disciplines by the American Mountain Guides Association and with international certification through the IFMGA, he runs a guide service based in Bishop and leads trips throughout the Sierra and worldwide. He is also the author of “Eastern Sierra Ice,” available for sale at www.maximuspress.com.
Ice 101: Get Schooled
Ice climbing is a definite step up in danger from most rock climbing so be sure of your skill and ability before venturing out. If you are not confident in your skills, take a class from a guide or guide service. The following companies, all featuring AMGA or IFMGA certified guides, offer Eastside ice climbing seminars and trips:
Alpine Skills International leads Lee Vining and June Lakes trips for novice and experienced ice climbers alike. They also offer ice axe, crampon and glacial ice workshops. www.alpineskills.com; (530) 582-9170
Sierra Mountain Center features several ice climbing clinics in the Lee Vining area from basic skills to advanced waterfall climbing and private waterfall lessons. www.sierramountaincenter.com; (760) 873-8526
Sierra Mountain Guides, based out of June Lake, offer introductory and advanced ice climbing skills courses, with a two-day classic mixed-route course offered to intermediate climbers. www.sierramtnguides.com; (760) 648-1122
Sierra Wilderness Seminars offers basic and advanced ice climbing seminars as well as mixed-ice and rock technical combo courses. They also offer women-specific clinics. www.swsmtns.com; (888) 797-6867
For more info about ice climbing on the Eastside, visit www.sierraclimbers.com. Or get a copy of the guidebook to the area, “Eastern Sierra Ice,” by SP Parker (www.maximuspress.com).
Ice Climbing Ratings
All rating systems, whether for rock, alpine, ice, or mixed climbing, are subjective and dependent on the area, the climbing history, and the opinions of the climbing community. But for ice climbing and mixed ice climbing, ratings are even less precise because the medium of ice can change daily, seasonally, and—as all ice climbers know—hourly.
Remember ice-climbing ratings are nebulous at best and dangerous at worst. Use sound judgment and trust your instincts.
Water Ice Climbing: The Technical Ice (WI) and Mixed Ice rating systems below are based on various established systems such as the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the New England Ice system (NEI), and others.
- WI1: Walking on ice with crampons, low angle, up a stream bed.
- WI2: Up to 60 degrees, good protection and belays. Ice usually thick and solid.
- WI3: Sustained angle of 70 degrees with short steeper sections up to 80-85 degrees, with good protection, resting places, and belays. Ice usually thick and solid.
- WI4: Sustained angle of 75-80 degrees with short steeper sections up to 90 degrees with good resting places in between; good quality ice offering secure protection and belays.
- WI5: Sustained angle of 85-90 degrees, vertical with fewer good resting places, while still offering good quality ice for protections and belays.
- WI6: Sustained angle of 90-plus degrees, vertical with very few resting places, ice may be of poor quality, thin; protection and belays may be difficult to attain.
- WI7: Vertical to overhanging, ice quality thin, not well-bonded to surface; protection is marginal or non-existent.
Mixed Ice Climbing: Mixed Ice Climbing ratings (MI) are new and are still being developed. The ratings are related to the Yosemite Decimal System used in rock climbing with a liberal dose of “feels like…” subjectivity thrown in for good measure.
- M1: “Feels like” 5.5 climbing with occasional dry tool move.
- M2: “Feels like” 5.6 climbing with couple dry tool moves.
- M3: “Feels like” 5.7 climbing with several dry tool moves.
- M4: “Feels like” 5.8 climbing/ WI 4 / with some technical dry tooling.
- M5: “Feels like” 5.9 climbing / WI 5 / some sections for sustained dry tooling.
- M6: “Feels like” 5.10 climbing / WI 6/ with some vertical or overhanging difficult dry tooling.
- M7: “Feels like” 5.11 /WI 6 or WI 7/ 10-15 meters of technical dry tooling.
- M8: “Feels like” 5.11+ / 8-10 meters of slightly overhanging technical dry tooling.
- M9: “Feels like” 5.12 / 10-15 meters of slightly overhanging technical dry tooling.
- M10: “Feels like” 5.12- 5.13 / overhanging, technical, strenuous dry tooling.
- M11: “Feels like” 5.13- 5.14 / Almost at the upper end.
- M12: “Feels like” 5.14 – ? / Nearing the upper end.
- M13: “Feels like” 5.14+ / The upper end.
- M14: “Feels like” 5. ?? New techniques, creativity … the future?
– Timothy Keating
Timothy Keating is an AMGA certified guide with Sierra Wilderness Seminars Mountain Guides. He has been guiding since 1981, and has spent more than 20 years guiding and ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon. www.swsmountainguides.com; 888-797-6867
Nov/070
Winter Mountaineering: Getting Out in the “Off” Season
By SP Parker
Photo: SP Parker
Learning the techniques for climbing thin ice on Chouinard Falls, Lee Vining Canyon.
Don’t put your summit fever away for the year. Once temperatures drop and snow falls, your climbing rack can be put to good use aiming for the cold-capped peaks of winter. Sure, winter in the mountain ranges of California can be cold and stormy but winter mountaineering provides the chance to explore the state’s peaks at a time when few folks reach them.
The Sierra Nevada and Cascade regions bless Californians with a playground where blue skies are the norm and brief storms can dump tons of fluffy white sand in the sandbox, so to speak, overnight. Meanwhile, California rarely endures the weeks of bad weather common in many other of the world’s mountain ranges.
Since the stakes are higher in the inclement conditions of winter, you need to be prepared with solid equipment, the right skills and a proper mindset. Make an investment and approach it with a ready mind and credit cards standing by.
Equipment: The Difference Between You and a Popsicle
Your local gear shop will be happy to help and glad to see you coming. To deal with extreme and fickle conditions, you’ll need more technical gear than you would in summer. In fact, aiming for peaks in the winter requires more gear, period.
Safety Starts with Being Warm and Dry
Having proper footwear is essential. Don’t skimp on footwear when the weather gets so cold that even the mercury shivers. If you are truly serious about winter mountaineering, fork out for high-end plastic boots. Plastic boots stay drier and insulate better. However, some people are very happy with leather boots. Whichever you choose, look for boots that don’t pinch, bind or bang up your shins. Buy boots a little loose since your toes will stay warmer if they have room to wiggle. Avoid the temptation to fill the space by wearing extra socks, which can cut off circulation to your toes. Frostbite damaged toes are souvenirs that can’t be returned or repaired.
Hands also need good insulation. Mittens will keep you warmer than gloves, although you’ll compromise dexterity. Wear a pair of liner gloves inside your mittens. That way, you can quickly pull off the shells if necessary and then yank them back on before the cold settles into your bones. Make sure that your mittens and gloves have an attachment system, such as a wrist loop, or clip to the jacket. Too often, gloves get sucked away by a strong wind, never to be seen again.
You should also invest in technical undergarments. Buy a stash of synthetic or wool (the new crop is made of soft, superfine weaves) under layers in a variety of thicknesses. Experiment with layering undershirts and bottoms. Eventually, you’ll find the right combination to keep you warm, but not too warm, in a variety of conditions.You’ll also want to buy a good waterproof, windproof jacket or shell, pair of pants and gaiters (to keep the snow out of your boots). Look for outer layers that are made of Gore-Tex, HyVent or similar windproof/waterproof materials. These fabrics will help you stay warm, even in a serious winter tempest.
Bivy or Bust
If you plan on overnight expeditions, there is great gear available to keep you cozy and protected from the elements while you sleep.
A down sleeping bag is highly preferable since it is warmer and less bulky than a synthetic bag. But just how warm a bag will you need? Manufacturer’s ratings are pretty subjective and everyone has a different metabolic rate. One person’s oven might be another person’s freezer. Women will likely want to invest in a bag tailored to the female form. Once you have found a bag shape that fits you well, look for a version with a water-resistant shell. Your breath will probably condense overnight in the tent. Besides, at some point somebody will spill their hot chocolate or soup on your bag.
Find a tent that is easy to pitch in strong winds and can support the weight of a night’s snowfall. Do your research; sit in the tent before buying it and ask yourself if you can live in it for a few days. For snow camping, color is an often overlooked feature, but it matters when the landscape is white and conditions are bleak. Yellow or orange are good choices for visibility, and also offer warmth and cheer when you’re tent bound. Finally, look for a tent designed for four season use and make sure that it features plenty of tie downs. A poorly made tent that lets snow or moisture seep in will make for a miserable night’s rest.
Over-snow Transportation
In most conditions you’ll need to use either snowshoes or skis to access the winter backcountry. Snowshoeing is easy and inexpensive. The newer generation shoes with Lexan frames and hypalon decks are far more user-friendly than the old wooden Alaskan-style shoes. Look for snowshoes with metal side rails on the base and a metal claw under the toe since these features will keep you from slipping when traversing or climbing straight up a steep slope.
While snowshoeing is beginner-friendly, skiing in the backcountry requires real skills and technique. Try renting first to find what equipment works best for you. The retail price of a full setup will put a major dent in your credit card limit so get it right the first time.
If you are a downhill skier consider a randonnée ski setup (also know as an AT or alpine touring setup). This skiing style allows you to release your heel for uphill climbing and lock it down for the downhills. Randonnée boots are usually softer than downhill boots so take them out for a day at your local resort to get familiar with them.
Telemark gear provides another skiing option, but you’ll need the requisite skills to take it to the backcountry.
Whatever you choose, the bottom line is to be conservative. You will be carrying a heavy pack and if you are on skis this will affect your skiing enormously. You will not get in the turns you usually do. And if you fall often, any time or energy advantage skiing provides will be burned up. If you doubt your skiing ability, take snowshoes.
Finally, always bring crampons and an ice axe, even if you think they may not be necessary. These traditional winter climbing tools may be unnecessary in soft snow conditions, but for firm snow they are a definite must.
You may need a bigger pack to carry all this equipment. If so, find one that will fit all your gear while carrying it as snugly as possible to minimize pack swing while skiing or snowshoeing. Remember the first law of backpacking: “Gear always expands to fill available space.” Don’t buy a pack bigger than you can reasonably carry when loaded.
Skills
There is no substitute for the combination of preparation and experience. The best way to begin is to take winter mountaineering and avalanche courses from a recognized guide outfit (see sidebar for a list of Nor Cal region guide services). You’ll learn heaps and meet great people, possibly some future adventure partners. Next, go with competent friends and learn from them while you rack up a few ascents and some hard-earned experience.
Avalanche Safety
In winter months, avalanches are a primary concern. The danger of encountering one rises quickly after a storm. An avalanche course that teaches you avalanche assessment is the single best investment you can make for safe winter travel in the backcountry. Just remember that avalanche assessment is tricky; in a given situation, you may never know if you made the right choice or simply got away with something. Experience is ultimately the best way to become proficient at recognizing danger. Before you head out every season it’s a good idea to read and review avy science books. One of the most popular and concise is Snow Sense by noted avy forecasters Jill Fredston and Doug Fessler. No matter what, you should definitely take an avy course from certified instructors (look for AMGA or IFMGA certification) for on-the-snow practice and understanding.
Tuning Up for Exertion and Elevation
Climbing lore has it that in the 1970s, British climbers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker slept in a frozen meat locker to test their gear and toughen up before climbing the Himalayan peak of Changabang. You don’t have to go to that extreme but you will want to be in good shape. Running is a good way to build cardiovascular fitness. To better simulate a long climb like Shasta, crank away on a Stairmaster to build the quad strength needed for steep climbing.
For high elevation climbs, acclimatization is of utmost importance. Unfortunately, this is largely a function of time rather than exercise. A sure formula for failure is to jump in the car from sea level and then start hiking at 8,000 feet early the next morning. Before long your head will be spinning you’ll feel ready to throw up. To avoid feeling this bad, let the body adapt to the lowered oxygen levels of elevation in smaller chunks. Altitude sickness can hit hard so monitor your body. If you don’t feel well, go lower and wait. Most people don’t have major problems but it is possible to develop pulmonary or cerebral edemas, which can result in death.
The Right Mindset
Perhaps the most important thing to bring on a winter mountaineering is the right mindset. Don’t push for a peak in winter with an “at-all-cost” approach, which can backfire. Above all, be careful. If you don’t like the conditions – head home. The mountains will still be there whether you tag the top this time or the next.
Originally from New Zealand, SP Parker has lived in the Eastern Sierra for 25 years. Certified in rock, alpine and ski disciplines by the American Mountain Guides Association and with international IFMGA certification, he runs a guide service based in Bishop and leads trips throughout the Sierra and worldwide.
