A Skier’s Wet Dream: Boat-in Access near Yosemite

The Saddlebag Lake water taxi can deliver you to the doorstep of sweet summer turns on Mt. Conness and the high-angle couloirs of North Peak

Story and photos by Brennan Lagasse

While the definition of a backcountry skier is one who earns his or her turns, that doesn’t mean we don’t love shortcuts when they present themselves, particularly ones that will cut down on access time and deliver us to the heart of the goods quicker and fresher.

In fact, it only means we appreciate shortcuts all the more.

A fine case in point is found just outside the northeastern boundary of Yosemite National Park, a few miles north of the summer roadside skiing mecca and accompanying tailgate party of Tioga Pass.

Located in the Hoover Wilderness, Saddlebag Lake (10,090 feet) is the highest road-accessible lake in the Sierra and the gateway to the trout-filled lakes of the 20 Lakes Basin. The owners of Saddlebag Lake Resort operate a boat taxi service to deliver anglers and hikers to the northwest end of the lake, where an 8.3-mile loop hike begins through the basin.

Of course, they welcome customers with bigger, fatter sticks, too — though you’re likely to get some quizzical looks from the fishermen.

For Saddlebag Lake is also the gateway to some fantastic summer skiing — on the glacier and snowfields of Mt. Conness (12,590’) and the adrenaline-pegging couloirs of North Peak (12,242’).

The water taxi, $11 roundtrip, is like getting a little head start. In truth, it’s more of a psychological boost than a physical necessity. It only saves about 1.5 miles each way (30-45 minutes of hiking), if the road is open. And if the road isn’t open, the taxi won’t be running — and you’ll have another 2.5 miles to tack on from Tioga Pass/Highway 120.

And if Tioga Pass isn’t open… well, head somewhere else for gosh sakes. That means there’s plenty of snow to go around.

If the water taxi is available, you’ll be happy to shave off any mileage you can because there’s still a fair amount of work to be done to reach your objective and once there you’ll have more energy to play.

After good coffee, there could hardly be a finer way to start a day of summer skiing in the High Sierra than hopping on a boat for a quick, time-saving glide across a glassy mountain lake. Chances are, you’ll appreciate the ride back at the end of the day even more.

Saddlebag Lake Resort is usually open and running the water taxi come June. A couple years ago, we used the water taxi to access perfect corn on North Peak on the 4th of July.

With this year’s incredibly obese snowpack, you’re going to have to wait a bit longer. “The 2011 season will not begin until around July 10th!” a message on the resort’s website states.

Keep it on your radar. It’s worth your patience.

Both Conness and North Peak offer some of the best summer skiing you can hope to find anywhere in North America, from mellow bowls and ramps to 50-degree splitter couloirs. This is true even in lean snow years.

There’s a plethora of terrain to choose from, and if you head off from the water taxi to ski Conness you’ll also have a view of the southeast slopes of North Peak off in the distance.

The water taxi runs every half hour from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and on Sunday until 5 p.m.

An important note when embarking on this journey: Once you get to the drop off immediately bathe yourself in insect repellent!

Although I loathe having to put this stuff on my skin for any reason, you will get eaten alive by mosquitoes in summer around Saddlebag Lake, especially near the shoreline, so plan accordingly.

After jumping off the boat from your wake-up cruise, you have less than a two- hour approach to the Conness Glacier or the south slopes of North Peak.

If you count yourself in the “addicted-to- getting-walled” group, as I do, venture off to the north face of North Peak and prepare to be amazed.

After negotiating the “trail,” which sometimes leads you to pull some interesting class three and four rock moves if you get off route, you’ll find yourself looking up at three perfect couloirs all begging for a few tracks.

The middle couloir more often than not doesn’t connect (maybe this year?), but the looker’s-left line, commonly referred to as the “Kook Chute” is appetizing enough to warrant an immediate assault by boot pack.

However, the looker’s-right couloir, which is the westernmost line that also leads towards the summit (3rd class rock climbing required), should also be a primary objective.

Be aware that in the fall these couloirs become classic ice climbs and in some years one must cross a bergschrund to access them. While the glacier is not normally prone to dangers such as fairing exposed crevasses, and even as late as July on an average snow year I’ve found no real technical danger to protect other than the normal caution that’s taken when skiing a steep couloir, the possibility for glacier hazards does exist and must be evaluated each season.

You’ll also get a great view of the southeast slopes off the back side of North Peak from the top of the main couloir, which might make you want to use every hour you can to ski out there knowing you should have a good chunk of time to play before the boat shuttle departs back to the resort.

Skiing off Mt. Conness or North Peak should be on the list for any California backcountry snow slider. There are so many different lines and features to ski you can just about get into any level of terrain you want, and do it all under a warm summer sky.

Add in the novelty and assistance from a water taxi and there you have yourself a pretty phenomenal, unique way to celebrate that summer has finally arrived to the high country.

Just don’t forget the insect repellent and the sunscreen.

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Brennan Lagasse is a backcountry couloir junkie and writer who lives in Lake Tahoe. You can read his backcountry reports at www.unofficialnetworks.com