A legendary surfer shares the secret to living life powerfully in his new book “The Code”
Words by Neil Pearlberg • Photos courtesy of Shaun Tomson
The famous beach at Rincon just south of Santa Barbara is composed of aged cobblestones piled loosely at the water’s edge. The ocean has effectively shaped each rock, shell, and coral fragment.
It can be said that one of Rincon’s most recognized surfers has been shaped in a similar manner. He is Shaun Tomson, surfing icon, and a former world champion.
Shaped by the world’s oceans, Tomson has become a man of faith, courage, creativity, and dogged determination.
Listed as one of the 25 most influential surfers of the century by Surfer magazine, he is the author of Surfer’s Code, published in 2006. In this influential book, Tomson shared 12 simple lessons for riding through life from the collective wisdom of the …