Reasonable Fear

You’re sitting on your board, waiting for the next set to roll in through the grey morning fog. The waves are inconsistent. Few others are out. Out of the corner of your eye, you see something dark break the inky green surface. A figment of fear – however unlikely, however irrational, despite the countless times you’ve heard how the real-world statistics are completely out of whack with the media hype – leaps forward and seizes your attention.

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