The Ultimate Kayaking Challenge for Expert Paddlers
For over 40 years, the Middle Fork of the Kings River has stood as the ultimate rite of passage for expert paddlers in California’s Sierra Nevada. Remote and accessible only after a full-day hike to the launch, this 47-mile section of river is famed for its impassable drops and steep gradients that keep what lies ahead a mystery. With snow blocking access much of the year, the window of opportunity is small — and California boaters often choose it as the season finale when most other rivers have run dry.
Long before modern adventurers set out on these challenging rapids, the Kings River region was home to indigenous communities — including the Mono (Monache) and Yokut tribes — who revered the river’s bounty and spirit. Their deep connection to the land, passed down through generations, laid the foundation for the area’s storied past. Early European explorers, captivated by its majestic beauty and inherent challenge, further cemented the river’s legendary status — its very name a nod to its commanding presence in the Sierra.
For those who dare to embrace these challenges, the reward is extraordinary: the east–west hike over Bishop Pass ascends to nearly 12,000 feet, revealing untouched alpine vistas that often remain snow-capped. Winding switchbacks lead down to the river launch, where paddlers encounter nearly continuous whitewater and unforgettable camping. Waterfalls are abundant, both in the river and inside the canyons along the way. Tehipite Dome — the largest dome in the Sierra at 7,708 feet — towers over part of the route, which cuts through the glacial landscape of the Tehipite Valley. Paddlers even get moments to relax while floating through meadows speckled with seasonal wildflowers, as the physical and mental challenges gradually melt away.
HERITAGE AND HIGH ADVENTURE
Expert kayaker and outdoor adventurer Carson Lindsay has run the Middle Kings three times, twice in 2019. He describes the experience as pure magic: “You’re next to the Pacific Crest and John Muir trails — but in a kayak.”
In 1982, legendary climbers Royal Robbins and Doug Tompkins formed the first crew to complete the run. Known for their pioneering ascents on Yosemite’s granite walls, they brought their trailblazing spirit to the river by achieving first descents in Latin America and the Sierra. This was also the era when sturdier plastic began replacing fiberglass, making multiple carries and rope-assisted maneuvers around dangerous drops much more feasible.
In David Smart’s biography, Royal Robbins: The American Climber, Robbins says “Boating is a part of it, but not the whole thing. We were willing to carry the boats all the way if necessary.”
Their groundbreaking efforts helped pave the way for modern expedition paddling in the Sierra and continue to inspire today’s adventurers.
EXPEDITION KAYAKING
Today, newer boat designs and advanced paddling techniques have helped reduce the number of required portages — though paddlers may still encounter dozens of them. Andrew Dunning, who completed the run in five days in September 2023, captures the full spirit of adventure in his short film, Symphony of the Kings:
“The goal becomes making it down no matter what. It is expedition paddling at its finest.”
The adventure demands readiness for surprises. While hiking in, Dunning’s crew faced winds up to 70 knots. They planned to carry their 9‑foot-long boats loaded with gear strapped like backpacks — a challenging feat even in the best conditions. High winds turned the boats into makeshift sails, flipping paddlers onto their backs like turtles. To cope, the crew opted for team-carrying, which turned what should have been a six-hour hike into a grueling 15-hour trek. In fact, some crews plan for a two-day hike because of such conditions.
There were also surprises on the water. Whitewater champion Sage Donnelly was standing on shore, assisting a fellow paddler, when her boat suddenly floated out of sight. The team spent a long night worrying they might have to evacuate. Fortunately, the boat was found wedged in an eddy the next morning, its lone crack patched on the fly with a plastic welder.
Changing weather added to the challenge. Rain boosted river flows higher than expected, and Dunning recalls, “By the time we reached the most difficult section of the river, the flows had come up considerably and the whitewater got pretty scary.” Lindsay’s crew experienced something similar on their 2019 trip that included whitewater legend Dane Jackson.
It was early September, and snow still lingered at high altitudes in what had been a bountiful year. The crew launched at a level they deemed challenging but manageable. But warm weather abruptly pushed flows to nearly double what most consider safe. Despite the surge, the trio navigated the run safely, conquering the notorious “Bottom 9” rapids in just three and a half hours. The powerful water forced them to bypass more rapids on the steeper upper section. Unfortunately, their rapid pace left little time for side hikes or extra laps on the waterfalls and slides that define this iconic run.
Even after experiencing higher flows than expected, Lindsay believes that the hike can be the toughest part for expert paddlers — especially the grueling 4,000‑foot descent to the river. A 90‑pound packed boat places tremendous strain on the knees, perhaps explaining why packrafters have begun exploring the area.
The sometimes swiftwater safety instructor adds, “It’s really important to assess and know your abilities. People see videos of rapids and think they can run it. It’s a different mindset when you are far from help.”
TEAMWORK IN THE WILD
Bringing along one or two paddlers familiar with the run can be invaluable. Lindsay, Jackson, and Ben Coleman, completed the hike and paddle in three days, aided by Coleman and Lindsay’s knowledge of the rapids and hazards from another trip just before. Dunning’s crew — being all new to the run — needed extra time.
“We’d often just have one person scout ahead and depend on them to pick the safest route ahead,” Dunning explains. “That’s when you really need to be in touch with how your team is feeling — whether someone should run a rapid or portage. Communication is key, as is staying aware of everyone’s energy and stress levels.”
Some forget that the Middle Fork’s final challenge happens after the paddling is over. It can take eight hours to drive back to where the adventure started to pick up any vehicles left there. Some crews get around this by having a designated driver or ”shuttle bunny” who moves the vehicles to the finish.
Despite all the hardships, the lure and legend of the Middle Kings endures, tempting expert paddlers to embark on this once-in-a-lifetime journey —perhaps even more than once.
MAIN IMAGE: Dane Jackson carries his kayak over a snowy Bishop Pass in September 2019 (Carson Lindsay)
