Heart of the Sierra: Adventures in Tuolumne County

Looking for unforgettable Tuolumne County adventures? Discover top hikes, climbs, lakes, and scenic trails across this Sierra paradise.
Wildflowers line the trail to Table Mountain, a striking lava formation above New Melones Reservoir Wildflowers line the trail to Table Mountain, a striking lava formation above New Melones Reservoir
Wildflowers line the trail to Table Mountain, a striking lava formation above New Melones Reservoir

Hike, climb, paddle, and explore across the wild landscapes that make Tuolumne County an outdoor paradise.

Adventure runs deep in Tuolumne County. From lava-carved tablelands to High Sierra summits, this rugged corner of California offers a lifetime of outdoor exploration. I first fell in love with the area in 1994, when I moved here for my first reporting job at The Union Democrat. Covering local stories helped me discover a treasure trove of recreation — and occasionally, I even got to write about it for a paycheck.

One of my most unforgettable stories involved gripping an oar and plunging down the wild Tuolumne River, heart pounding as our raft charged through Class V whitewater. But not every adventure here requires a helmet or a life jacket.

I’ve returned almost every year since, and I’m still uncovering new places to explore. Here are a few of my favorites.

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Table Mountain and the Grotto

Near the town of Jamestown, lava flow dating back millions of years formed a fascinating formation now called Table Mountain. Its flat top resembles a table more than a mountain, making a moderate and unique hike.

From Highway 49 in Jamestown, turn north onto Rawhide Road, cross a bridge and drive two miles. Turn left onto Shell Road and continue another 1.7 miles past a few homes as the pavement ends and the road becomes dirt. Make sure to park only in designated areas to avoid disturbing residents. Low-clearance vehicles should park here at the start of the dirt road, while high-clearance vehicles can continue farther on the now-rough route.

Table Mountain stands east of Shell Road and a marked trail starts about a mile south of the first parking area. The path climbs about 500 feet to the “summit,” which is more of a tabletop than a pointy peak. Enjoy a rewarding view of New Melones Reservoir.

Climber AnaLisse Johansson enjoyed an ascent in the Grotto near Table Mountain
Climber AnaLisse Johansson enjoyed an ascent in the Grotto near Table Mountain. Photo By Matt Johanson

Rock climbers love the nearby Grotto, an enclosed area full of sport and trad routes between the difficulty grades of 5.8 and 5.13. This is where I learned to climb, and 30 years later, I’m still a lot closer to 5.8 than 5.13.

To reach the Grotto, keep walking south on Shell Road for another half mile beyond the summit trail and take an eastbound use trail. The path will lead uphill and then across a boulder field until reaching a third-class drop into the bowl-like Grotto; the crag’s basalt columns are unmistakable. Sidesaddle and Bandito are the best starter routes here.

Pinecrest Lake attracts hikers, swimmers, boaters and anglers
Pinecrest Lake attracts hikers, swimmers, boaters and anglers. Photo By Visit Tuolumne County

Pinecrest Lake

For an easy day hike, take a lap around Tuolumne County’s most popular high-country lake. Encircling Pinecrest Lake is a four-mile trail which most hikers can complete in two hours; enjoy the scenery and exercise. As an added bonus, hikers can cool off on hot days by taking a dip in the lake. Pinecrest offers fine swimming, boating and fishing.

The lake sits right off Highway 108, about 30 miles east of Sonora, making it one of the easiest alpine escapes in the county. Because summer can bring heavy crowds, especially on weekends, Pinecrest is an especially rewarding destination in late summer and early fall when the pace slows and the weather is still beautiful.

Reasons abound to climb volcanicSonora Peak: an easy approach, a short climb, a high summit and an incredible payoff view
Reasons abound to climb volcanic Sonora Peak: an easy approach, a short climb, a high summit and an incredible payoff view. Photo by Matt Johanson

Sonora Peak

Near Sonora Pass in summer, hikers ascend Sonora Peak. Only two miles and 2,000 vertical feet separate its summit from the Saint Mary’s Pass trailhead, marked by a road sign about a mile west of the highway’s 9,643-foot summit. A well-marked trail covers most of the route, and those who reach the summit enjoy a terrific High Sierra view.

Snow typically still covers this mountain and area when Sonora Pass reopens each spring, normally in May. The Saint Mary’s Pass trailhead is located directly on Highway 108, just west of Sonora Pass.

Sonora Pass marks a launching point for adventure in summer and fall (Matt Johanson collection).
Sonora Pass marks a launching point for adventure in summer and fall. Photo by Matt Johanson collection

Dardanelles

Lava flow from about ten million years ago followed by centuries of erosion created the tall volcanic formations now known as the Dardanelles. The most easily reached of these peaks is Dardanelles West.

A third-class scramble leads to the top of Dardanelles West (Matt Johanson)
A third-class scramble leads to the top of Dardanelles West. Photo by Matt Johanson

From Highway 108, turn left onto Clark Fork Road (about three miles east of Donnell Vista or three miles west of the village of Dardanelle). After crossing the bridge, turn left onto Forest Road 6N06. The road goes from well paved to roughly paved to dirt as you pass a winter gate. A high-clearance vehicle is preferable. Continue about six miles to Sword Lake trailhead.

A well-traveled trail leads to the base of the mountain; from there, climbers must navigate and scramble on third-class terrain to reach the summit. For those wishing to try their skills on a seldom-attempted and undeveloped mountain, Dardanelles West provides a good learning opportunity.

Kennedy Lake reflects Kennedy Peak in Emigrant Wilderness
Kennedy Lake reflects Kennedy Peak in Emigrant Wilderness. Photo by Matt Johanson

Winter outings

After snow closes Highway 108 to through traffic over Sonora Pass, Tuolumne County’s high country becomes a winter wonderland. The road remains open up to the Dodge Ridge Mountain Resort turnoff, keeping the ski area and nearby snow-play areas easy to reach. Downhill skiers appreciate the resort’s affordable prices, while snowmobilers enjoy motoring along the snow-covered sections of Sonora Pass.

Cross country skiers and snowshoers happily explore other areas. Consider the 4.2-mile Crabtree Loop. From Dodge Ridge Road, take the last right before the resort towards Crabtree Road. Park and find the trail leading from the south end of the lot. The loop leads through lush pine trees and meadows, with a few rolling ups and downs but no big hills. There’s also an option to extend the loop to about six miles.

 Near Clavey Falls on the Tuolumne River (ARTA)
Near Clavey Falls on the Tuolumne River. Photo by ARTA

Rafting & Other opportunities

Tuolumne County boasts too many adventures to describe here, but consider a few other ideas. Sonora Pass to Ebbetts Pass, about 30 miles, makes an excellent starter segment of the Pacific Crest Trail, taking two or three days. Similarly, Sonora Pass to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite affords a rewarding 70-mile backpacking trek, taking about five days.

Want to bag more summits? Check out Pinecrest Peak, Leavitt Peak or Night Cap, all achievable in a day without much gear, conditions permitting. The Sonora Pass area offers hundreds of technical climbs for all abilities. For a scenic overnight or weekend backpacking trip, hike to Kennedy Lake in Emigrant Wilderness and enjoy stunning views of Kennedy Peak.

And yes, the thrills run deeper still. After experiencing the “Main T,” I once returned to tackle its even wilder sibling: the Cherry Creek/Upper Tuolumne route. With nine miles of continuous Class 4 and 5 rapids, the “Upper T” felt like a non-stop thrill ride with more exciting rapids than all my previous rafting trips combined. River rafting isn’t for amateurs but several professional outfitters provide safe and thrilling experiences, like OARS, ARTA and Sierra Mac. Don’t forget to tip your guide.

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Main photo by Sarah Spolgaric

Read other stories by Matt Johanson here.

 

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