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Legendary Yosemite climber Kim Schmitz, whose contributions to the world of climbing spanned over five decades, passed away on September 19, 2016, in a single car accident. He was 70 years old and was returning to his home in Jackson Hole from a river trip in Idaho. Schmitz’s death marked the end of an era for the climbing community, leaving behind a legacy that continues to inspire climbers worldwide.
Born on June 26, 1946, Schmitz first arrived in Yosemite in 1965, a time when the Valley was becoming the epicenter of American rock climbing. He quickly established himself as one of the leading climbers of his generation, joining the ranks of other Yosemite legends like Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard. His natural talent, combined with an unwavering determination, allowed him to push the boundaries of what was possible on vertical rock faces.
In 1967, Schmitz achieved a remarkable feat by climbing El Capitan in just two and a half days. This ascent was considered extraordinarily fast for the late 1960s and solidified his reputation as one of the most skilled climbers in Yosemite. His speed and efficiency on big walls would become hallmarks of his climbing style throughout his career.
After honing his big wall techniques in Yosemite, Schmitz set his sights on even greater challenges. He took his skills to the Himalaya, where he would make some of his most significant contributions to mountaineering. In 1977, Schmitz led the first ascent of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan’s Karakoram range. This monumental climb was described by Schmitz as “endless Yosemite-style climbing in an alpine environment.” The tower’s unparalleled 4,300-foot wall of pure alpine granite has since earned it the title of “the biggest big wall,” a testament to the scale and difficulty of Schmitz’s achievement.
Schmitz’s climbing career was not without its hardships. By the age of 54, he had undergone nearly 40 surgeries due to accidents in the Himalaya and a serious fall while guiding clients. However, these setbacks never diminished his passion for climbing and the mountains. Instead, they seemed to fuel his determination to continue pushing his limits and sharing his love for the sport with others.
Throughout his life, Schmitz remained an active member of the climbing community. Even in his later years, he continued to guide clients and share his vast knowledge and experience with younger generations of climbers. His commitment to the sport and his willingness to mentor others made him a beloved figure in the climbing world.
In recognition of his lifetime contributions to climbing, Schmitz was awarded the prestigious Miriam Underhill Award from the American Alpine Club in 2015. This honor acknowledged not only his impressive list of first ascents and pioneering climbs but also his role in shaping the culture and ethics of climbing.
Kim Schmitz’s impact on the world of climbing cannot be overstated. He was a visionary who helped push the boundaries of what was possible in both Yosemite and the great ranges of the world. His legacy lives on through the routes he established, the techniques he pioneered, and the countless climbers he inspired and mentored throughout his life.
As the climbing community mourns the loss of one of its greatest figures, it also celebrates the extraordinary life and achievements of Kim Schmitz. He will be remembered not only as a legendary Yosemite climber but as a true ambassador for the sport, whose passion and dedication helped shape the world of climbing as we know it today.
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Main Photo: Kim in Nepal 1979 (John Roskelley).
